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Polish plants as raw materials for cosmetic purposes

Treść / Zawartość
Identyfikatory
Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
The cosmetics market is more and more demanding, and there is a constant request for new products. The aim of the study was to find plant materials occurring commonly in Poland that would have a multidirectional effect on the skin. Research focuses on plants with high content of saponins and polyphenols. Ability to create foam and ability to reduce the surface tension of water as a determinant of saponin content was checked. The Folin-Ciocalteu test was made to check the content of polyphenols. Fifty-seven raw materials were examined. To the most promising for cosmetic purposes belong goldenrods (Solidago), especially their leaves. Much better results were obtained for S. canadensis and S. gigantea, than S. virgaurea.
Słowa kluczowe
Rocznik
Strony
95--106
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 22 poz., wykr.
Twórcy
  • Institute of General Food Chemistry, Departament of Biotechnology and Food Sciences, Lodz University of Technology, Stefanowskiego 4/10, 90-924 Lodz, Poland
  • Institute of General Food Chemistry, Departament of Biotechnology and Food Sciences, Lodz University of Technology, Stefanowskiego 4/10, 90-924 Lodz, Poland
  • Institute of General Food Chemistry, Departament of Biotechnology and Food Sciences, Lodz University of Technology, Stefanowskiego 4/10, 90-924 Lodz, Poland
Bibliografia
  • 1. Chanchal D, Swarnlata S. Novel approaches in herbal cosmetics. J Cosmet Dermatol 2008, 7:89-95.
  • 2. González-Minero F, Bravo-Díaz L. The use of plants in skin-care products, cosmetics and fragrances: past and present. Cosmetics 2018, 5:50-59.
  • 3. Güçlü-Üstündağ Ö., Mazza G. Saponins: Properties, applications and processing. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr 2007, 47:231-258.
  • 4. Vincken J, Heng L, de Groot A, Gruppen H. Saponins, classification and occurrence in the plant kingdom. Phytochemistry 2007, 68:275-297.
  • 5. Bezerra K, Rufino R, Luna J, Sarubbo L. Saponins and microbial biosurfactants: Potential raw materials for the formulation of cosmetics. Biotechnol Prog 2018, 34:1482-1493.
  • 6. Sparg S, Light M, Van Staden J. Biological activities and distribution of plant saponins. J Ethnopharmacol 2004, 94: 219-243.
  • 7. Quideau S, Deffieux D, Douat-Casassus C, Pouységu L. Plant polyphenols: Chemical properties, biological activities, and synthesis. Angew Chem 2011, 50:586-621.
  • 8. Ratz-Łyko A, Arct J, Majewski S, Pytkowska K. Influence of polyphenols on the physiological processes in the skin. Phytother Res 2015, 29:509-517.
  • 9. Vermerris W, Nicholson R. Phenolic compound biochemistry. Springer Science+Business Media B.V., Berlin 2008, pp. 3-32.
  • 10. Nichols J, Katiyar S. Skin photoprotection by natural polyphenols: Antiinflammatory, antioxidant and DNA repair mechanisms. Arch Dermatol Res 2010, 302:71-83.
  • 11. Zillich O, Schweiggert-Weisz U, Eisner P, Kerscher M. Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. Int J Cosmet Sci 2015, 37:455-464.
  • 12. Arct J, Bielenda B, Oborska A, Pytkowska K. The tea and its cosmetic application. J Appl Cosmetol 2003, 21:117-127.
  • 13. Lee K, Cho J, Park E, Choi J. Anti-elastase and anti-hyaluronidase of phenolic substance from Areca catechu as a new anti-ageing agent. Int J Cosmet Sci 2001, 23:341-346.
  • 14. Konarska A, Domaciuk M. Differences in the fruit structure and the location and content of bioactive substances in Viburnum opulus and Viburnum lantana fruits. Protoplasma 2018, 255: 25.
  • 15. Baki G, Alexander K. Introduction to cosmetic formulation and technology, Wiley, Hoboken, New Jersey. 2015, pp. 184-185.
  • 16. Thiessen D, Man K: Surface tension measurement. In: The Measurement, Instrumentation, and Sensors: Handbook. Ed. Webster J. CRC Press Inc., Boca Raton, Florida 1999, pp.793-804.
  • 17. Lee B, Ravindra P, Chan E. A critical review: surface and interfacial tension measurement by the drop weight method. Chem Eng Com 2008, 195: 889-924.
  • 18. Harkins W, Brown F. The determination of surface tension (free surface energy), and the weight of falling drops: The surface tension of water and benzene by the capillary height method. J Am Chem Soc 1919, 41:499-524.
  • 19. Singleton V, Orthofer R, Lamuela-Raventos R. Analysis of total phenols and other oxidation substrates and antioxidants by means of Folin-Ciocalteu reagent. Methods Enzymol 1999, 299:152-178.
  • 20. Dobjanschi L, Zdrinca M, Muresan M, Vicas S, Antonescu A. The thin layer chromatography analysis of saponins belonging to Solidago species. Anal Univ Oradea 2013, 21:56-60.
  • 21. Al-Snafi A. The pharmacological importance of Bellis perennis - a review. Int J Phytother 2015, 5:63-69.
  • 22. Pérez-Jiménez J, Neveu V, Vos F, Scalbert A. Identification of the 100 richest dietary sources of polyphenols: an application of the Phenol-Explorer database. Eur J Clin Nutr 2010, 64:112-120.
Uwagi
Opracowanie rekordu w ramach umowy 509/P-DUN/2018 ze środków MNiSW przeznaczonych na działalność upowszechniającą naukę (2019).
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikator YADDA
bwmeta1.element.baztech-b1ed0e1b-0df7-4f7d-ae76-22d8c5b16eba
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