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PL
Obecnie w sektorze tekstylnym dąży się do rozbudowy i automatyzacji urządzeń umożliwiających wykonywanie pomiarów w określonym zakresie. Moisture Management Tester jest urządzeniem służącym do pomiaru i oceny transportu cieczy przez tkaninę, natomiast Drying Rate Tester 201 służy do określenia prędkości suszenia tkaniny biorąc pod uwagę szybkość parowania. Te innowacyjne urządzenia pozwalają na zbadanie parametrów wpływających na komfort cieplny użytkownika oraz są niezbędne w przypadku tkanin przeznaczonych na funkcjonalne wyroby odzieżowe.
EN
Currently, the textile sector is striving to expand and automate devices that allow for measurements in a specific range. Moisture Management Tester is a device for measuring and assessing fluid transport through a fabric, while Drying Rate Tester 201 is used to determine the drying speed of fabric taking into account the evaporation rate. These innovative devices allow for examination of parameters affecting the user’s thermal comfort and are necessary in the case of fabrics intended for functional clothing products.
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Content available remote Application of Physical Vapor Deposition in Textile Industry
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EN
Currently, scientists are striving to produce innovative textile materials characterized by special properties. Therefore, attempts have been made to use physical and chemical vapor deposition techniques to modify the surface of textile materials, i.e., nonwovens, fabrics, and knitted fabrics. By using these techniques for modifying the basic materials, researchers have obtained textiles with novel properties, which are used in shielding materials, textronics, or clothing, as well as in specialized accessories. The PVD process can be applied for almost all materials. The physical vapor deposition process allows for obtaining layers of different thicknesses and with various physical and chemical properties. This article is a review of the latest state of the art on the use of various methods of physical vapor deposition in textiles destined for different purposes.
EN
Basalt fibers and fabrics made of these are characterized by excellent thermal and mechanical properties. Therefore, basalt fabrics, due to a good resistance to high temper atures, are frequently applied in the personal protection equipment (PPE). In order to improve their thermal properties and, above all, the contact heat resistance, the process of physical vapor deposition was proposed. The process of Physical Vapor Deposition (PVD) involves producing a coating on a specific substrate as a result of physical deposition of molecules, ions or atoms of the selected chemical compounds. The method selected for the test is the magnetron sputtering. It involves depositing a uniform film of chromium on the surface of the basalt fabric. In order to improve the thermal properties – especially the contact heat resistance, two values of thickness of the chromium layer deposited on the basalt fabric surface were adopted for the test. Covering 1 μm and 5 μm with the chromium layer did not fulfil the expectations and the research will be continued.
EN
The main aim of the research was to carry out the surface modification of basalt fabric in order to improve selected thermal properties of the material, i.e., resistance to contact and radiant heat, to apply it in a hot work environment. Attention was focused on checking whether the metal coating deposited does not cause too high conductivity, which is dangerous to human health. The process of magnetron sputtering with the use of chromium and aluminum of various thickness values was applied to basalt fabrics. Based on scanning electron microscope analysis, it was found that none of the aluminum or chromium coatings covered 100% of the basalt fabric surface. Results of the surface resistance analysis of four out of the six samples of basalt fabrics tested indicate that they belong to anti-static materials. The metallic coatings obtained can potentially be used to improve the thermal properties of basalt fabric mentioned.
PL
Surowiec mineralny, który jest włóknem bazaltowym w przemyśle tekstylnym, jest wykorzystywany przede wszystkim do produkcji wyrobów technicznych, odzieży odpornej na czynniki termiczne i mechaniczne oraz jej elementy. Celem badań było określenie wpływu metalizacji powierzchni tkaniny bazaltowej na jej cechy. Na próbkach tkaniny bazaltowej osadzono warstwy chromu i aluminium o różnych grubościach stosując metodę rozpylania magnetronowego. Tkaniny oceniono metodami pomiaru rezystancji powierzchni i analizy skaningowego mikroskopu elektronowego. Zaobserwowano wzrost rezystywności powierzchniowej powleczonej tkaniny bazaltowej w stosunku do tkaniny niepowleczonej. Jednak metalizacja tkanin nie spowodowała utraty właściwości izolacyjnych materiałów. Żadna z warstw aluminium ani chromu nie pokrywała 100% powierzchni tkaniny bazaltowej. Uzyskano dobrą przyczepność powłoki do podłoża.
PL
Obecnie na rynku tekstylnym wytwarzane są coraz bardziej innowacyjne wyroby odzieżowe, co związane jest z nieustannym rozwojem technologii. Dynamiczny rozwój nowych technologii i obecny stan techniki pozwala naukowcom na wykonywanie bardzo dokładnych pomiarów. Możliwe są różnorodne analizy porównawcze wyników badań tego samego parametru na dwóch, bądź większej liczbie urządzeń. W artykule przedstawiono analizę porównawczą rozkładu temperatur na poszczególnych częściach ciała przeprowadzoną na manekinie termicznym i kamerze termowizyjnej podczas badania rajstop. Uzyskane wyniki badań przeprowadzone na obu urządzeniach były porównywalne zarówno dla rajstop z mikrokapsułkami, jak i bez. Stwierdzono, wyższe wartości temperatury na powierzchni rajstop zawierających mikrokapsułki z mentolem.
EN
Currently, on the textile market, more and more innovative clothing products are manufactured, which is associated by the constant development of new technologies. The dynamic development of new technologies and the current state of art allows scientists to make very accurate measurements. Currently, various comparative analyzes of from test results two or more devices that examine the same parameter are possible. The article presents a comparative analysis of the temperature distribution on individual body parts carried out on the thermal manikin and thermal imaging camera at tights. Obtained results of tests carried out on both devices were comparable for both tights with and without microcapsules. Higher temperature values were found on the surface of tights containing microcapsules with menthol.
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Content available remote Study on the use of Aerogel on the Surface of Basalt Fabric
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EN
The layer of aerogel was applied to the surface of basalt fabric due to the possibility of improving a fabric protecting against the influence of hot environmental factors. The analysis of aerogel surface roughness and thickness of the obtained sample, resistance to contact heat for the contact temperature between 100°C and 250°C, and tests of resistance to the penetration of thermal radiation were carried out. In addition, thermal conductivity, thermal resistance, thermal diffusion, thermal absorption, and surface roughness were determined. The obtained results indicate the unevenness of aerogel application on the surface of basalt fabric. For this reason, work should be carried out on an appropriate technology that will allow them to be applied evenly on the surface of the fabric. The parameters tested and the results obtained are promising in terms of the possibility of using the fabric obtained in protective gloves.
EN
The clothing industry is currently focused on 3D virtual fitting. Many companies use size 12 as the core size; however, in recent years the average size has increased. For example, in the United Kingdom, the average size is now 16. Many companies have not updated their core size and often use size 12 as the size they are the most familiar with. The purpose of this paper is to compare real plus size body shapes with artificial avatars in relation to the fabric draping. This paper will investigate, how the body shape changes with an age (body height decreases, skin elasticity is lower, the shoulders are hunched, buttocks sag and fatness pockets are accumulated around the waist area). These factors are not considered in virtual avatars, but have a big impact on virtual fitting.
9
Content available remote Anthropometry and Size Groups in the Clothing Industry
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EN
It appears that from generation to generation the anthropometric dimensions of the human population are changing. The aim of this paper was to examine the extent of these changes and the need for generating updated measurements for the clothing industry. The clothing industry uses mannequins and avatars to represent the modal group of the population. The industry tends to use three different categories for the human body shape (endomorphic, mesomorphic, and ectomorphic). The clothing industry should focus on specific measurements of the body rather than general categories and create more body shapes to satisfy customer needs. The paper also aimed at showing the problems faced by clothing designers. The traditional way of measuring takes into account only selected dimensions of the human body; this does not reflect the “true” overall body shape. The dimension tables used by the apparel industry are based on the fourth anthropometric photograph taken between 1987 and 1989. These tables are still in the use currently; however, after 30 years they are outdated and should be revised for the young contemporary generation. This study can be used for the development of new dimension tables as well as defining methods aimed at improving the quality of measurements for clothing engineering purposes. This is an important issue, because the National Institute of Anthropometry does not deal with such problems (the measurements are conducted mainly for understanding the human body shape rather than any other application), which means that anthropometric measurements are not ideally suited to applications of clothes fitting.
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Content available remote Transformable Warning Clothing for Children with Active Light Sources
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EN
Warning clothing for children should meet several requirements in the field of safety and functionalities. Technical and technological development has brought many different benefits. One of them are active light sources that can be used to improve the visibility of the user of given clothing products in situations, where the risk of being invisible is high. Therefore, the transformable clothing with the use of side emitting polymer optical fiber increases the child visibility in the traffic compared to the situation, when the safety was guaranteed only by reflective materials. The scientific problem to be solved was the design of transformable clothing, followed by the integration of traffic light systems with transformable children's clothing, which should increase the child's safety on the road. Transformability, as a feature of the product, should not interfere with the child's visibility. At a later stage of work, visioility tests on the transformable children's clothing set prototype were carried out according to the proposed research methodology. The visibility of system has been assessed both from the point of view of the arrangement of traffic light elements as well as their optoelectronic parameters, such as illuminance, the color of the optical fiber cover, and so on.
EN
A composite based on basalt fabric was produced because of its good thermal and mechanical properties. As a result of the reactive magnetron sputtering technique, a layer of aluminium and zirconium (IV) oxide 200 nm thick was deposited on Mylar film, which was adhered to the surface of the basalt fabric using a special adhesive glue and silicone. The variants of composites prepared were subjected to contact resistance tests at a contact temperature of 100 °C and 250 °C, as well as to resistance to thermal radiation tests. The tests carried out on the composites obtained showed an improvement of tested parameters.
PL
W pracy wytworzono kompozyt na bazie tkaniny bazaltowej ze względu na jej dobre właściwości termiczne i mechaniczne. W wyniku zastosowania techniki reaktywnego rozpylania magnetronowego na folii Mylar osadzono warstwę aluminium i tlenku cyrkonu o grubości 200 nanometrów, którą przyklejono na powierzchnię tkaniny bazaltowej poprzez zastosowywanie kleju oraz silikonu. Przygotowane warianty kompozytów poddano badaniom odporności na ciepło kontaktowe dla temperatury kontaktu 100 °C i 250 °C oraz odporności na promieniowanie cieplne. Przeprowadzone na kompozytach badania wykazały poprawę badanych parametrów.
EN
The aim of this paper was to determine the adhesion force between an aluminum foil and basalt fabrics. Aluminised basalt fabric can be used as an alternative solution for protective clothing production. So far aluminised glass fabric has been used for this purpose. The lamination of basalt fabrics with aluminum foil does not changed fabric flexibility and can provide better protection against thermal radiation. To check different variants of adhesion, fabrics reinforced by a steel wire were also used (wire diameter 0.1 mm). The steel wire caused an increase in the fabric tear strength as well as in puncture and cut resistance. Two types of glue were chosen to carry out an investigation on the strength of adhesive bonding (Butacoll A+ and Bonatex PU85). The adhesion strength of the laminates was measured according to the PN-88/P-04950 standard. The test results confirmed higher values for weft directions and the phenomenon of asymmetry of the bond strength was found during testing.
PL
Celem pracy było określenie siły adhezji między folią aluminiową a warstwą tkaniny bazaltowej. Aluminizowane tkaniny bazaltowe mogą być używane jako alternatywne rozwiązania dla produkcji odzieży ochronnej. Obecnie odzież chroniąca przed działaniem wysokiej temperatury produkowana jest z aluminizowanych tkanin szklanych. Laminacja tkanin bazaltowych nie wpływa na elastyczność tkaniny, a jednocześnie może zapewnić ochronę przed promieniowaniem cieplnym na wyższym poziomie. Różne warianty połączeń folii aluminiowej z tkaninami bazaltowymi zostały przebadane pod względem siły adhezji. Badaniom poddano również tkaniny wzmocnione stalowym drutem (średnica drutu 0,1 mm). Obecność stalowego drutu w splocie tkaniny powodowała wzrost odporności na rozdzieranie, jak również na punktowe przecięcia. Badaniom siły adhezji zostały poddane dwa typy kleju (Butacoll A+ i Bonatex PU85). Siła rozwarstwiania laminatu została określona zgodnie z normą PN-88/P-04950. Wyniki badań potwierdziły wyższe wartości siły rozwarstwiania w kierunku wątku, a także stwierdzono zjawisko asymetrii wytrzymałości połączenia klejowego, w trakcie wykonywanie testów.
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Content available remote 3D Design of Clothing in Medical Applications
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EN
In this paper, we present a new methodology of clothing engineering construction for the medical application. Project “BIOAKOD” intends to propose clothing solutions for elderly people with dermatological defects. This purpose requires a particular concept of clothing because of the additional functionality expected in the clothing. It means that the proposed clothing needs to cover a human body in an aesthetic way and gives comfort of use it, and it should also bring an adding value in health treatment of people with dermatosis (psoriasis).
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