Nowa wersja platformy, zawierająca wyłącznie zasoby pełnotekstowe, jest już dostępna.
Przejdź na https://bibliotekanauki.pl
Preferencje help
Widoczny [Schowaj] Abstrakt
Liczba wyników

Znaleziono wyników: 21

Liczba wyników na stronie
first rewind previous Strona / 2 next fast forward last
Wyniki wyszukiwania
Wyszukiwano:
w słowach kluczowych:  tkactwo
help Sortuj według:

help Ogranicz wyniki do:
first rewind previous Strona / 2 next fast forward last
EN
In 2017 Andrychow is celebrating 250 years of its urban rights. The article presents cross-sectional history of the town from the Middle Ages to the outbreak of the World War II, focusing on important moments in the history of Andrychów. The settlement, founded in the early 1300s by immigrants from Moravia, for the first centuries of its existence underwent periodic depopulations and did not play much role. It was probably in the sixteenth century, and certainly in the seventeenth, inhabitants of the village and its surroundings, unable to support themselves exclusively from farming, began to be in craft weaving. As a result in the eighteenth century Andrychów has already became an important centre of linen industry, which gathered weavers not only from surrounding villages, but also from further centres. The linen produced here was sold by peasants from Smyrna (Izmir) to Barcelona and Hamburg. Andrychów’s development of industry and trade contributed to the fact that on 24th October 1767 king Stanisław August Poniatowski granted a charter allowing for foundation of a town in the rural location on Magdeburg rights. After the 1st partition of Poland, Andrychów got under Austrian rule. The nineteenth century was a period of economic regression of the town. As a result of the appearance of cotton as the new raw material on the market, and outwork system as the new way of organizing production, Andrychów was not able to compete with new textile centres emerging on Polish, Czech and Austrian lands. The breakthrough came only in 1907, when the “Czeczowiczka brothers First Galician Mechanical Weaving for Cotton Products” was established. After Poland regained independence in 1918, the city struggled with many difficulties conomic crisis, unemployment problems), but at the same time this was a time of rapid development for Andrychów, which was attempted to be promoted as an attractive tourist resort and climatic spa. These efforts were interrupted by the outbreak of World War II.
EN
Warp tensions were measured while a machine was operating on a woven cotton fabric with three different woven patterns. This study was carried out with image analysis methods using a high speed camera. Three weave pattern types: plain, twill and satin were woven on the same weaving machine, and thus it could be understood how weave pattern differences affect warp tension. Each of these three weaves was woven in three weft densities: 20, 28 and 45 wefts per cm. These fabrics were able to be made on a weaving machine with an automatic dobby. It was aimed to investigate warp tension differences for three basic weave patterns while keeping all machine settings constant. The weave settings of the dobby were changed for plain, twill and satin weaves. Warp tension calculation was based on the warp elasticity theory. Warp elasticises were measured by image processing methods in MATLAB using a high-speed camera. It was aimed to improve upon the new method of warp extension measurement of fabric when the loom is in operation. It was observed that the warp tension in plain fabric was higher than for twill and satin under the same conditions.
PL
W pracy mierzono naprężenia osnowy podczas wytwarzania tkanin bawełnianych o trzech różnych wzorach. Badanie zostało przeprowadzone metodami analizy obrazu przy użyciu kamery. Na tej samej maszynie tkano trzy rodzaje wzorów splotu: gładki, diagonalny i satynowy, dzięki czemu zbadano wpływ rodzaju splotu na napięcie osnowy. Każdy z tych trzech splotów został utkany w trzech gęstościach wątku: 20, 28 i 45 wątków/cm. Celem pracy było zbadanie różnic naprężeń osnowy dla trzech podstawowych wzorów splotów, przy jednoczesnym zachowaniu stałych ustawień maszyny. Obliczenia naprężenia osnowy oparto na teorii sprężystości osnowy. Elastyczność osnowy mierzono metodami przetwarzania obrazu w programie MATLAB przy użyciu kamery. Celem badania było ulepszenie nowej metody pomiaru wydłużenia osnowy tkaniny podczas pracy krosna. Zaobserwowano, że naprężenie osnowy w tkaninie gładkiej było wyższe niż w przypadku diagonalu i satyny w tych samych warunkach.
EN
In this study, warp elongations in a satin fabric were detected using image processing to reduce yarn breakage during weaving. It was aimed to increase the productivity of the weaving looms. In this work, a high sensitive camera was used for the analyses. The warp elongation was analysed and determined statistically using MATLAB software. The warp elongations in satin woven fabric samples were examined and detected on a working loom using a high sensitivity camera. Additionally the strains for each warp yarn were measured and recorded. Different elongations for warp ends were observed, attributed to the differences in mechanism settings. The difference in the elongation of the warp yarns causes warp yarn breakages, which decrease productivity during weaving. This warp breaking ratio could be reduced by making necessary adjustments to the shedding mechanism on the loom.
PL
Analiza została wykonana w celu możliwości zredukowania zrywów włókien podczas przędzenia, a tym samym w celu zwiększenia produktywności krosien. Zastosowano wysokoczułą kamerę do analizy obrazów. Wydłużenia włókien osnowy mierzono i analizowano statystycznie stosując program MATLAB. Zaobserwowano i zarejestrowano różne wydłużenia w zależności od parametrów ustawienia krosna. Ilość zrywów można było zredukować poprzez odpowiednie ustawienie mechanizmu sterowania przesmyku.
PL
Celem niniejszego artykułu jest analiza przypadku tkactwa z regionu łowickiego pod względem symbolicznym, społecznym oraz kulturowym. W tym celu odwołuję się do szerokiego wachlarza przykładów, odnosząc się do historii, symboliki oraz zmieniającej się roli społecznej tkactwa. Jednym z moich priorytetów jest zarysowanie genderowo ukonstytuowanego podziału ról społecznych podczas obróbki lnu, przędzenia i tkania. Przywołuję zatem ukonstytuowane na gruncie humanistyki podziały natura-kultura, domowe-zewnętrzne, a także korzystam z teoriii marksistowskich oraz strukturalistycznych. Jednocześnie nie prowadzę silnie zarysowanej polemiki z żadną z wymienionych teorii, zgodnie z założeniem opisania zjawiska, jakim jest tkactwo w Łowiczu, a nie krytyki naukowej.
EN
This article aims to examine the case of gender roles intertwined with the tradition of spinning and weaving within the community of Łowicz region, Poland. My interest in this particular case was aroused during fieldwork I conducted there covering the topic of local traditional craft. In my article I pursue the aim by invoking various examples both from history, mythology and scientific theories following the origin and development of spinning and weaving Special attention is paid to feminist, gender, marxist and stucturalist theories with a view of a multidimensional coherent and plausible explanation. In the end I resort to these for an ultimate evaluation of Łowicz’s weaving tradition.
EN
The article discusses the current state of preservation of the intangible cultural heritage in the rural areas of Podlasie and the most important problems related to its protection. It has been assumed that Podlasie covers the area of the present Podlaskie Voivodeship, excluding its western part that belongs to Kurpie. At the beginning the article outlines the settlement processes that led to the current cultural diversity of the inhabitants of this region. The Podlaskie Voivodeship is the most ethnically and religiously diverse area in Poland. It is inhabited by national minorities: Belarusian, Lithuanian and Ukrainian, as well as an ethnic minority – the Tatars. Ethnic and national divisions are accompanied by a religious division, because apart from the Catholics, Podlasie is inhabited by many followers of the Orthodox Church. One of the effects of this ethnic and national diversity is the presence of East Slavic dialects with local varieties. These distinctions are reflected, among others, in the toponymy. Linguistic diversity is visible in the oral folklore, especially in ritual songs, including Konopielki, which are sung in the Podlasie region on Easter and are particularly interesting. Oral folklore includes also legends that nowadays rapidly disappear as a result of the lack of intergenerational transfer. Coexistence of two Christian denominations in Podlasie results in wealth of customs, ceremonies and beliefs related to the annual cycle of feasts. The article presents three selected annual customs and ceremonies worth protecting by being listed in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List: playing the ligawka, a large trumpet-like musical instrument, in Advent in Ciechanowiec, celebrations of the last days of carnival, called zapusty, in Radziłów, and a tradition of prayers with wax votives in Krypno. Undoubtedly, one of the most important issues of protection of intangible heritage in the Podlasie region is the problem of transferring knowledge and skills associated with traditional crafts. Basketwork, pottery and weaving deserve particular attention among them. The article mentions also the problem of folk medicine in the context of the activity of the healers who are called szeptuchy in Podlasie. In the summary there have been listed the most important problems of protection of the intangible heritage in Podlasie.
11
72%
EN
Mechanism models are introduced for rotary dobby, crank & cam shedding motions. Equations governing heald frame motion are derived. Heald frame motion curves are obtained and compared with each other. It is shown that higher heald frame maximum velocity & maximum acceleration, as well as a longer approximate heald frame dwell, are generated by the rotary dobby rather than the crank or cam shedding motions, due to the intermittent nature of the rotary dobby shaft’s motion.
PL
Opracowano modele mechanizmu napędu nicielnic, napędzanych przez mechanizm rotacyjny, korbowy i krzywkowy. Uzyskano wykresy ruchu nicielnic w funkcji czasu i porównano je między sobą. Wykazano, że większe maksimum prędkości i przyspieszenia nicielnic, jak również dłuższe przerwy sterowania nicielnic, występują raczej przy rotacyjnym ruchu nicielnic, niż przy korbowym lub krzywkowym napędzie. Wynika to głównie z przerywanego ruchu wału mechanizmu nicielnicowego.
EN
For the first time in the literature, the present paper compares flax processing and weaving vocabulary found strictly in the Polish–Belorussian borderland which was formerly part of a single Grodno county. The source material comprises well-known Polish lexicological works, and also a work on Grodno lexicon by Apanas Cychun which has not as yet been taken into consideration. Thanks to this, the paper notes lexemes unattested in previous corpora of dialectal vocabulary, and adds precision to the information contained in them.
14
Content available remote Limitations of the CAD-CAM System in the Process of Weaving
58%
EN
The weaving process is constantly evolving in terms of productivity, quality, and possibilities of fabrication of different fabric structures and shapes. This article covers some issues that have still not been resolved and represents distracting factors in the woven fabrics production. In the development of woven fabric using the CAD technology, it is inevitably a deviation of the virtual image on the computer screen from the woven sample. According to comprehensive industry analyses, the findings of many authors who contributed to the resolution of these problems can be concluded that these problems are still present in the development and production of striped, checkered, and jacquard woven fabrics. In this article, jacquard, multicolor woven fabrics were investigated, with deviations in pattern sizes and shades of color in warp and weft systems compared to virtual simulation on the computer, as well as the tendency of the weft distortion arising from the weaving process leading to the pattern deformation.
EN
In the first part of this article a new construction of blackout fabrics and attempts at modifying them are described. The assumption of the research was to obtain a weaving barrier against visible light (VIS) in weave-patterned fabric (jacquard) used as a curtain designed for public buildings. For this purpose the possibility of obtaining barrier properties in one-warp and build-up thread fabric was checked. Afterwards the barrier properties of the weaving structures designed were evaluated by the spectrophotometric method according to standard methodology. The level of barrier properties achieved confirms the legitimacy of the hypothesis about the possibility of acquiring such properties in patterned jacquard fabrics. The article presents the first attempt at an objective assessment of the barrier properties of jacquard blackout fabrics conducted based on digital image analysis. The experimental results proved that the method proposed allows to detect the structural interstices of woven fabric correctly, which can be used to asses the value of barrier features. The work is a summary of achievements in the field of the design and assessment of barrier properties of a new type of blackout fabrics.
PL
W pierwszej części artykułu opisano nową konstrukcję tkaniny zaciemniającej, oraz próby jej modyfikowania. Założeniem badań było uzyskanie barierowości tkackiej wobec światła widzialnego VIS w tkaninie zasłonowej wzorowanej splotowo przeznaczonej do stosowania w obiektach użyteczności publicznej. W tym celu sprawdzono możliwość uzyskania barierowości w tkaninie jednoosnowowej z nawarstwionym wątkiem. Następnie oceniono właściwości barierowe zaprojektowanych struktur tkackich metodą spektrofotometryczną. Uzyskany poziom barierowości potwierdza słuszność hipotezy o możliwości uzyskania takich właściwości w tkaninach wzorowanych żakardowo. W artykule przedstawiono próbę obiektywnej oceny właściwości barierowych tkanin żakardowych typu blackout prowadzoną w oparciu o cyfrową analizę obrazu. Praca jest podsumowaniem dotychczasowych osiągnięć z zakresu konstrukcji i oceny właściwości barierowych tkanin blackout nowego typu.
EN
The paper presents some possibilities of measuring light passed through textile products applicable as sunshade window curtains. The existing measurement methods were analysed and a new method for measuring the barrier properties and transparency of flat textile products was proposed based on linear measurement. The idea of measurement was established for the purpose of identifying the optical properties of blackout fabrics applied as internal screens for public interiors. Preliminary research has shown that blackout fabrics obtained by weaving technology – so called weaving blackout (not a coated blackout) have a varied structure. In this case, the characteristics of this structure determine the level of barrier properties. The mechanism of light passing through such structures is special and requires specific measurement conditions. The paper presents an original research methodology dedicated especially for blackout fabrics. The new methodology and indicators for assessing the barrier effect in the VIS radiation band can be adopted by industry.
PL
W pracy przedstawiono możliwości pomiaru światła przechodzącego przez wyroby tekstylne stosowane jako przeciwsłoneczne osłony okienne. Przeanalizowano istniejące metody pomiarowe, oraz zaproponowano nową metodę pomiaru właściwości barierowych i transparentności płaskich wyrobów włókienniczych opartą o pomiar liniowy. Idea pomiaru powstała na potrzeby identyfikacji właściwości optycznych tkanin zaciemniających typu blackout stosowanych jako osłony wewnętrzne do wnętrz użyteczności publicznej. We wstępnych badaniach stwierdzono, że tkaniny zaciemniające typu blackout otrzymywane w technologii tkackiej, tzw. blackout tkacki (nie blackout powlekany) mają zróżnicowaną strukturę. W tym przypadku cechy tej struktury decydują o poziomie właściwości barierowych. Mechanizm przechodzenia światła przez takie struktury jest szczególny i wymaga specyficznych warunków pomiaru. W pracy przedstawiono własną metodykę badawczą dedykowaną specjalnie dla tkanin blackout. Nowa metodyka i wskaźniki oceny zjawiska barierowości dla promieniowania VIS może być zaadoptowana do przemysłu.
18
58%
EN
Textile composite reinforcement forming has been employed in many aeronautic industries as a traditional composite manufacturing process. The double-curved shape manufacturing may be difficult and can lead to defects when the composite parts have high curvatures and large deformations. Compared with the textile composites forming, surface 3D weaving can demonstrate directly the geometry of final composite part without the stages involved in 2D product. The weaving in three directions is completely designed and warp and weft yarns are always perpendicular to the surfaces of the final 3D ply. These two manufacturing techniques are applied to produce an important piece of aircraft: the corner fitting. The 3D weaving results are compared with the experimental forming by a punch as same geometry as the corner fitting part. The conveniences and limits of each technique are investigated. The comparisons show particularly a perfect final 3D fabric with homogeneous fibre volume fraction performed by the surface 3D weaving technique.
19
Content available remote The Pole who invented a new method of weaving, bullet-resistant vest and....TV
58%
EN
Jan Szczepanik, Polish inventor was called, inter alia, “Polish Edison”, and “Austrian Edison”. At the breakdown of the 19th century, Mark Twain described his activity in two papers. Jan Szczepanik was the author of at least 50 inventions and several hundred technical patents in the field of coloured photography, weaving or television.
PL
Jan Szczepanik - polski wynalazca, nazywany m. in. „polskim Edisonem”, „austriackim Edisonem”. Na przełomie XIX i XX w. Mark Twain opisał jego działalność w dwóch artykułach. Jan Szczepanik był autorem co najmniej 50 wynalazków i kilkuset opatentowanych pomysłów technicznych z dziedziny fotografii barwnej, tkactwa czy telewizji.
EN
The contact resistance of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns embedded in a hybrid woven fabric will constitute a problem for electro-conductive textiles under certain circumstances. A high contact resistance can induce hotspots, while a variable contact resistance may cause malfunctioning of the components that are interconnected by the electro-conductive yarns. Moreover, the contact robustness should be preserved over time and various treatments such as washing or abrading should not alter the functioning of the electro-conductive textiles. The electrical resistance developed in the contact point of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns is the result of various factors. The influence of diameter of the electro-conductive stainless steel yarns, the weave pattern, the weft density, and the abrasion on the contact resistance was investigated. Hybrid polyester fabrics were produced according to the design of experiments (DoE) and statistical models were found that describe the variation of the contact resistance with the selected input parameters. It was concluded that the diameter of the stainless steel warp and weft yarns has a statistically significant influence on the contact resistance regardless of the weave. Weft density had a significant influence on the contact resistance but only in case of the twill fabrics. Abrasion led to an increase in contact resistance regardless of the weave pattern and the type of stainless steel yarn that was used. Finally, a combination of parameters that leads to plain and twill fabrics with low contact resistance and robust contacts is recommended.
first rewind previous Strona / 2 next fast forward last
JavaScript jest wyłączony w Twojej przeglądarce internetowej. Włącz go, a następnie odśwież stronę, aby móc w pełni z niej korzystać.