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To Dye or Not to Dye: Bioarchaeological Studies of Hala Sultan Tekke Site, Cyprus

100%

Kofel D.

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tom 56(1)

89-98

EN

Dated to the Late Bronze Age (Late Cypriot II: 1450–1200 BC and Late Cypriot III: 1200–1050 BC), the site of Hala Sultan Tekke brought to light interesting evidence of textile production and possible fabric dyeing. Finds of loom weights and spindle whorls together with remains of dyer’s croton (Chrozophora tinctoria), field gromwell (Buglossoides arvensis syn. Lithospermum arvense), and shells of murex allow opening a discussion over the methods and reasons for undertaking the time and cost-consuming procedure of dye production. The present article, through an examination of finds and an analysis of plant macrofossils and molluscs, tests a hypothesis of textile dyeing at the Late Cypriot city of Dromolaxia Vizatzia.

2

Tekstylia i pieczęcie. O relacjach pomiędzy produkcją włókienniczą a praktykami stemplowania w Grecji epoki brązu oraz o zupełnie nowych danych z odcisków glinianych pieczęci

75%

Ulanowska A.

Przegląd Archeologiczny

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2021

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tom 69

111-135

EN

This contribution discusses the evidence of textile impressions preserved on the undersides of clay sealings from Bronze Age Greece. A collection of modern casts taken from these sealings, stored in the Corpus der minoischen und mykenischen Siegel in Heidelberg, is currently being analyzed by the author. The assumed reliability of textile impressions as a source of knowledge about the qualities of actual textiles and raw materials used to produce them has been verified by a series of archaeological experiments and comparative analysis of modern raw materials of various origin. Results of the analysis of 199 casts from two Aegean sites: Lerna in Argolid and Phaistos on Crete, have provided new evidence for technical uses of textile and organic products in the daily storage routine and sealing practices, as well as for the specific parameters of threads, cords, and fabrics impressed on clay. Due to the relatively large number of textile imprints, it is possible, for the first time, to make site-specific comparisons of textile production on the basis of products and to track technical developments in textile manufacturing throughout the Aegean Bronze Age.

3

Textile Production Within a Co-operative Applied to European Rural Women

51%

Perivoliotis M. C.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2002

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tom Vol. 8, no. 3 (38)

8--13

EN

The paper describes our distance-learning proposal in the textile production field for women in remote and rural areas. It is a pilot study focusing on those women who are professionally or occasionally occupied with the production of textiles without having any education in textile production, design, marketing or management, with special focus on those who wish to attend simplified lectures on these matters but cannot, due to their residential location or to their lifestyle constraints. New education strategies adapted to the user’s educational level had to be developed engaging the potential of computer technology in the textile process. It is also a proposed solution to the exclusion and unemployment that is still rife in many East Mediterranean and East European countries. We also look for the promotion of the home and co-operative textile industry via education. The research work is a combined project of the Technological Educational Institution of Athens (TEI) and the “Prisma” society, supported by the LEONARDO DA VINCI program and the diploma work and practical training of TEI students. It has been applied all around Greece and introduced to co-operatives in Italy, Ireland and Sweden. We describe the evolution of the program and the results of the applications among our partners.

PL

Omówiono projekt dotyczący możliwości zdalnej edukacji kobiet wiejskich w dziedzinie produkcji tekstyliów. Jest to pilotowy projekt dotyczący kobiet, zawodowo lub okazjonalnie zatrudnionych przy wytwarzaniu tekstyliów, nie posiadających wykształcenia w dziedzinie produkcji włókienniczej, wzornictwa, marketingu i zarządzania, ze szczególnym uwzględnieniem tych kobiet, które chciałyby dokształcać się, ale nie mogą z powodu odległego miejsca zamieszkania lub innych przeszkód. Nowe strategie edukacyjne zostały opracowane w oparciu o procedury informatyczne. Przedstawione propozycje mają pomóc w rozwiązaniu problemu bezrobocia w wielu krajach wschodnioeuropejskich i śródziemnomorskich oraz w promocji rodzimego przemysłu włókienniczego. Projekt opracowały wspólnie Instytut Technologiczno-Edukacyjny w Atenach i Stowarzyszenie „Prisma", wspierane przez program „Leonardo da Vinci". Projekt został wprowadzony w Grecji, a także we Włoszech, Irlandii i Szwecji.

4

Textilní produkce ve starém Egyptě a její doklady z Abúsíru

51%

Wollnerová D.

Pražské egyptologické studie (Prague Egyptological Studies)

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2019

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nr 22

106-116

EN

The aim of this article is to present the textile production in ancient Egypt. This material figured prominently in all aspects of life of the Egyptians. Information about it derives from the fabrics themselves and from the representation on tomb-paintings and models of workshops. In the first part, the author points to different uses of textile as documented in archaeological finds. Besides the clothes it was plentifully needed in the households, for funeral use, in religion and it has also its economical function. The second part deals with the technology of production of textile. The most common raw material for production was flax, but infrequently other plant or animal materials were also used. The prepared flax yarns had to be spun and iconographical sources show that there were several ways in which this activity was carried out. Special attention is paid to weaving. Findings indicate that in ancient Egypt two types of looms were known – horizontal and vertical. The extent of use of both of these types has been discussed by researchers for a long time. The finished products could be decorated in a variety of ways, the article presents especially those that are used on material from Abusir. Finally, various archaeological contexts of Abusir textile finds are outlined along with the functions of this material. Examples of some most interesting textile finds are also presented. Due to the character of the site, they are dated to the Third and First Millennium BC.

CS

Cílem tohoto článku je na základě archeologických i ikonografických pramenů představit textilní produkci ve starověkém Egyptě. Látky a výrobky z nich představovaly totiž velmi důležitou komoditu provázející každodenní život člověka. První část se zaměřuje na různé použití textilu, tak jak ho dokumentují archeologické nálezy, kromě odívání byl totiž textil přirozeně hojně využíván v domácnosti, pro funerální potřeby, v náboženství, měl také svou ekonomickou funkci. Druhá část pojednává o technologii výroby tkanin a textilních produktů. Nejběžnější surovinou pro výrobu byl len, ale vzácněji se používaly také jiné rostlinné či živočišné materiály. Připravená lněná vlákna bylo nutné upříst, ikonografické prameny ukazují, že existovalo několik způsobů, jakými byla tato činnost prováděna. Zvláštní pozornost je věnována tkaní. Nálezy naznačují, že ve starověkém Egyptě byly známy dva druhy tkalcovských stavů – horizontální a vertikální. Rozsah používání obou těchto typů je badateli dlouho diskutován, nejasná je zejména otázka, kdy a za jakých podmínek začal být používán vertikální stav. Hotový textilní výrobek mohl být zdoben nejrůznějšími způsoby, článek představuje zvláště ty, které se objevují na abúsírských nálezech. Závěrem jsou zmíněny různé archeologické kontexty, ze kterých pochází tkaniny z královské nekropole v Abúsíru, a zároveň jsou uvedeny příklady těch nejzajímavějších zdejších látek, datovaných, vzhledem k charakteru lokality, do 3. a 1. tisíciletí př. Kr.

5

Adsorption of reactive dyes by modified chitin from aqueous solutions

51%

Filipkowska U. , Klimiuk E. , Grabowski S. , Siedlecka E.

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2002

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tom 11

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nr 4

EN

The adsorption of reactive dyes onto chitin (deacetylation degree = 5%) was investigated from aqueous solutions at pH 3. Ten reactive dyes were examined, including 5 dyes from the helactine group, 3 dyes from the polactine group and 2 dyes from the remazol group. The K and b constants were calculated from the Langmuir equation that assumes the presence of two sites of different nature. It was found that the dye adsorption on chitin in type I and II sites differed in both the adsorption affinity and maximum adsorption capacity. Based on the dimensionless separation factor RL it was found that the dye adsorption mechanism in type I sites was an ion exchange, whereas in the case of type II sites it was a physical adsorption. A correlation was found between dye adsorption on chitin and the number of sulfone groups in a dye molecule. However, neither molecular weight nor the number of aromatic rings was correlated with dye adsorption.