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1 Przegląd Włókienniczy - Włókno, Odzież, Skóra

1 2007

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Możliwości kształtowania struktury ściegu w układzie nić szwalna - igła maszynowa. Cz. II

100%

Elmrych-Bocheńska J. , Zieja A. , Żak G.

tom nr 8

48-49

In the sewing process, the sewing thread is perceived as the weakest, the most unreliable element. The conducted for many years research concerning the thread working conditions in the stitch formation zone indicates that the needle thread in the lockstitch sewing machine yields the highest destruction. As the origin of the thread destruction in the sewing process, the thread serial loading generated by the machine tool action in the stitch formation cycle is considered. It has been stated that in the most of the analysed cases, the maximum of the dynamic tension generated within the single machine working cycle is connected with the action oft he thread take-up during the stitch tightening stage. The course of the stage is strongly connected with the geometrical characteristics of the 3-element system: the sewing thread - the machine needle - the textile material. In the technological practice, for the given kind of fabric, the stitch tightening resistance may be shaped by the appropriate selection of the sewing thread dimensions and also the needle metric count. In the paper, the analysis of potential possibilities of shaping the stitch tightening resistance will be presented. The starting point for the analysis will be experimental research carried out using the tensile machine and original methodology, worked out in the Department of Clothing Technology.