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Wave Climate in the Gulf of Gdańsk vs. Open Baltic Sea near Lubiatowo, Poland

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Różyński G.

tom Vol. 57, nr 2

167-176

The paper analyses long-term variability in the wave climate near Lubiatowo, ca. 15 km east of Łeba harbor, and in the Gulf of Gdańsk, near the Vistula river mouth. The wave climate was reconstructed for the 1958-2001 period by the German Institute for Coastal Research (GKSS). Using basic statistical tools - empirical mean values of significant wave height, estimation of the number of threshold crossings above a prescribed value of that height and conditional empirical probability density functions of wave approach directions - a comparison of wave height at the two locations was executed. A substantial reduction in wave height inside the Gulf (sheltering effect) was measured. Further, the increased storminess over the winter season was estimated for the open sea location. Finally, the analysis of wave approach direction in the open sea location revealed substantial growth in extreme waves from the western sector. Given the geographic configuration of the Gulf and the combined rise in storminess and evolution in extreme wave direction, it can be inferred that the sheltering effect of the Gulf can vary depending on locations within the Gulf. Identification of sheltering patterns in the Gulf emerges as obvious follow-up research. This study could also prove useful in analyses aiming at integrated management of coastal zones in the Gulf, mainly in the implementation of Coastal Protection Law (Apr. 2003), which postulates maintenance of the 2001 shoreline configuration along the entire Polish coast.

Spatial variability of long-term trends in significant wave height over the Gulf of Gdańsk using System Identification techniques

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Badur J. , Cieślikiewicz W.

tom Vol. 47, No. 2

190--201

The significant wave height field over the Gulf of Gdańsk in the Baltic Sea is simulated back to the late 19th century using selected data-driven System Identification techniques (Takagi-Sugeno-Kang neuro-fuzzy system and non-linear optimization methods) and the NOAA/OAR/ESRL PSD Reanalysis 2 wind fields. Spatial variability of trends in the simulated dataset is briefly presented to show a cumulative “storminess” increase in the open, eastern part of the Gulf of Gdańsk and a decrease in the sheltered, western part of the Gulf.