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Key phenomena in surf and swash zone: process-based modelling and data-driven analysis

100%

Kapiński J. , Ostrowski R. , Pruszak Z. , Różyński G.

2006

tom Vol. 54, nr 4

391-403

Selected results of investigations concerning a shallow water part of the coastal zone, covering the surf zone and the swash zone are presented. The above research bas been carried out by means of field measurements as well as data-driven and theoretical modelling. The investigations have led to development of a mathematical model of wave transformation and run-up on the shore in the Lagrangian system, as well as identification of infragravity waves (edge waves) in the multibar morphological beach system and their linkage with rhythmic shoreline forms (cusps). Same empirical relationships have been obtained for the description of number of bars in a bar system and dissipation of wave energy over such morphological structure. The experimental findings are based on field studies carrled out at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo.

Selected properties of the coastal waters of the Gulf of Gdańsk (autumn 1994 and summer 1995)

75%

Witkowska K. , Dubrawski R.

tom Vol. 27, No. 4

11-21

Results of investigations on the physical and chemical properties (transparency, temperature, salinity, total nitrogen and phosphorus contents) of the Gulf of Gdansk near-shore waters carried out in autumn 1994 (September - October) and summer 1995 (June - July) are presented. Spatial and seasonal variability of water properties and environmental conditions were determined. The results obtained point to the steady degradation of near-shore environment, the range of which is slowly extending further into the water body.