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Investigation of the Effects of Different Bias Angles of Stitching on Seam Performance of Wool Suits

100%

Öztaş H. , Gürarda A.

2019

tom Vol. 19, no. 4

324--331

Wool suits are always preferred due to their warmth retention in cool weather, comfort, and aesthetic features. Seams are very important for the quality of wool suits. The tensile characteristics of seamed fabric change with the change of fabric bias angle. This study aimed to investigate the effects of different seam angles with various stitch densities on the seam strength and the seam breaking extension of wool suit stitches. In this study, seam strength and seam-breaking elongation at different bias angles were investigated for the stitches of trousers and jackets of wool suits. As is known, in the production of trousers and jackets, the seams are applied not only in the direction of the weft and warp but also in the different bias angles at the crotch area and arm hole seams. Six wool fabrics with different structural properties were chosen as experimental samples. Fabrics were cut at 0°, 30°, 45°, 60°, and 90° angles and then sewn with three different stitch densities (3, 4, and 5 stitches/cm ), with lockstitch stitch type for each fabric angle. Therefore, 90 differently seamed fabric samples were prepared. The results indicated that seams prepared with 0°,45° and 90° bias angles give the highest seam strength and that 30°, 45°, and 60° bias angles give the highest seam-breaking elongation values all over the samples. Seams prepared with 30° and 60° bias angles give the lowest seam strength, and 0° and 90° bias angles give the lowest seam-breaking elongation values all over the samples.

Effect of Stitch Density and Stitch Type on the Moisture Management Properties of Seams for High Active Sportswear Application

80%

Maanvizhi M. , Prakash C. , Rameshbabu V.

2020

tom Vol. 28, no. 6 (144)

72--78

The impact of stitch density and seam class on the moisture management properties of seams was investigated in this study. A lapped seam (Class 2) using a Flat Lock Stitch class ASTM 607 and a super imposed seam (Class 1) using an Overlock Stitch Class ASTM 514 were constructed with four different stitch densities – SPI 10, SPI 14, SPI 18 and SPI 22, and the moisture management properties of seamed fabric in terms of the spreading speed, area of spreading, absorption time, wetting time, one-way transport index and overall moisture management capability (OMMC) on the seam line were investigated. It was observed from the results that the seams made with low stitch density show better moisture management capability, and the lapped seam exhibits better moisture management capability when compared to the superimposed seam.

W pracy zbadano wpływ gęstości i klasy ściegu na właściwości odprowadzania wilgoci szwów. Zastosowano: szew zakładkowy (klasa 2) – Flat Lock Stitch class ASTM 607 i szew super narzucony (klasa 1) – Overlock Stitch Class ASTM 514. Szwy miały cztery różne gęstości ściegów: SPI 10, SPI 14, SPI 18 i SPI 22. Zbadano właściwości zarządzania wilgocią zszytej tkaniny pod względem szybkości rozprowadzania, obszaru rozprowadzania, czasu wchłaniania, czasu zwilżania, wskaźnika transportu w jedną stronę oraz ogólnej zdolności zarządzania wilgocią (OMMC) na linii szwu. Na podstawie wyników zaobserwowano, że szwy wykonane z małą gęstością ściegu wykazują lepszą zdolność odprowadzania wilgoci, a szew zakładkowy wykazuje lepszą zdolność odprowadzania wilgoci w porównaniu ze szwem nałożonym.

Effect of sewing parameters and wash type on the dimensional stability of knitted garments

80%

Malik M. H. , Malik Z. A. , Hussain T. , Ramzan M. B.

2013

tom Vol. 13, no. 3

89--94

The aim of this research is to study the effect of clothing manufacturing parameters, that is, stitch type, stitch density, sewing thread type and washing type on the dimensional stability of single jersey knitted garment. Single jersey bleached fabric, made from Ne 32 cotton combed ring spun yarn, was used to make 32 medium size crew neck T-shirts selecting two levels of stitch type, stitch density, sewing thread type and wash type according to the experimental design. After constructing the garments, four critical measurements of each garment, that is, body length, body width, across shoulder and sleeve length were measured. The constructed garments were divided into two equal groups. One group was washed with water and the other group was washed using a detergent. After washing, drying and tumbling, the same critical measurements of each garment were taken and the percent shrinkage was calculated. Analysis of data was done on responses of output variables against the input variables using MINITAB. The results showed that three input variables: stitch type, stitch density and garment wash type have significant effect on all the output variables.