The aim of this work is to estimate the effect of loop length and Lycra weight percent (Lwp) on the geometrical and thermo-physiological comfort of elastic plain knitted fabric. Fifty single jersey knitted fabric samples were produced at five levels of Lycra weight percent (Lwp) (4%, 5%, 6%, 7%, and 8%) and loop length (2.7 mm, 2.9 mm, 3.1 mm, 3.3 mm, and 3.4 mm) with full plaited (fp) and half plaited (hp) of bare Lycra. The thermo-physiological comfort properties (thermal conductivity, absorptivity, and water vapor permeability), air permeability, and geometrical properties were measured at standard of each one. The results showed that the elastic single jersey knitted fabric thickness ranged between 3.12 times and 4.2 times of the yarn diameter (d). The fabric thickness increased when loop length is increased and decreased when Lwp is increased. The thermal conductivity, absorptivity, and water vapor resistance (WVR) decreased with Lwp increasing.
In the article, the change in the linear dimensions of tissues is analysed by the closure of the elastane threads in the tissue system under the influence of wet processing. It is found that standard techniques cover changes in linear dimensions only in the direction of the base and utka. However, for clothing design, it is necessary to know the change in linear dimensions in arbitrary directions. The empirical models used to calculate these dimensions do not have the required accuracy. The article proposes a model for calculating the change in linear dimensions in an arbitrary direction based on the analysis of the geometry of the fabric and describing the process of tissue shrinkage under the influence of wet processing, which allows to obtain results with sufficient accuracy.
PL
W artykule analizowano zmianę wymiarów tkanin pod wpływem obróbki na mokro. Przy projektowaniu odzieży konieczna jest znajomość zmian wymiarów liniowych w dowolnych kierunkach. Modele empiryczne użyte do obliczenia tych wymiarów nie mają wymaganej dokładności. W artykule zaproponowano model do obliczania zmiany wymiarów liniowych w dowolnym kierunku na podstawie analizy geometrii tkaniny i opisu procesu kurczenia się tkaniny pod wpływem obróbki na mokro, co pozwala na uzyskanie wyników z wystarczającą dokładnością.
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