Omówiono badania procesu starzenia się wyrobów futrzarskich ze skór nieszlachetnych (owcze i nutrie). Podstawowe zagadnienia tych badań to: zmiany wytrzymałościowe tkanki skóry w procesie starzenia, czy i jak można zmniejszyć jego ujemny wpływ oraz czy ponowne natłuszczenie spowoduje poprawę własności wytrzymałościowych i plastycznych skóry.
EN
When being used, furriery is exposed to the effects of various factors causing distinct changes leading to the deterioration of its appearance and durability. The process of ageing is inevitable. It seems, however, that it is possible to affect its speed or even counteract it. The paper presents the studies on the course of the ageing process of furriery exemplified by sheepskin and nutria, the most popular furriery on the Polish market. The results of the experimental works make it possible to determine the degree of changes in the selected quality factors, and point to the possibility of restoring the desirable properties and, consequently, extending the service life of a product. (original abstract)
Omówiono zasoby, motywy zakupu i sposoby wykorzystania odzieży futrzanej. Przedstawiono znaczenie i ocenę realizacji cech odzieży futrzanej istotnych dla konsumenta oraz jej wady.
EN
Consumers' preferences regarding fur garments are much differentiated. The identification of the properties of such garments, those that are essential from consumers 'standpoint , is a difficult task. The author shows that in consumers 'opinion the level of the realization of these properties is unsatisfactory as compared to the importance attached to the individual characteristics. It has been stated that the studies on consumers 'preferences regarding fur garments should aim at the formulation of such industry-wide standards that would include the essential aspects of consumers ' requirements concerning the analysed group of products.(original abstract)
W artykule omówiono wpływ zawartości w tkance skórnej tłuszczu niezwiązanego na wybrane wyróżniki wartości użytkowej skór futerkowych, zależnych od czasu starzenia i rodzaju środka natłuszczającego.
EN
The research concerned the relationship between the unbound fat content of the dermal tissue and selected factors of the functional quality of fur skins, depending on the duration of the ageing process and the oiling agent used. As the natural ageing process is very slow, for the purpose of the research the accelerated ageing using the laboratory method under simulated conditions was employed. Chrome tanned sheepskins, oiled with Pellan FO or Sulfopar MF-1 were tested. Differences between the oiling agents were found: Pellan FO was more effective in inhibiting the degradation of the tested factors. In addition, a marked relationship between the results of the sensory analysis and instrumental measurements was found. The instruments proved to be more sensitive and registered the occurring quality changes more rapidly. (original abstract)
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