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EN
The text presents the development of the research into folk dress worn by the inhabitants of the Czech lands, beginning with the works by topographers focussing on a thorough description of particular countries and provinces of the Austrian monarchy and their inhabitants, to the development of an academic platform. This was preceded by the Czechoslavic Ethnographic Exhibition in Prague (1895) and the associated efforts to present festive and ceremonial clothing worn by rural residents. For the Exhibition, exhibits were searched for in the field, which were described and photo-documented. Many articles were published in special journals; these were supposed to support the collection of materials for an ethnographic encyclopaedia. The publication of monographs on particular ethnographic regions in the post-war period was a certain intermediate stage – folk dress was described in separate chapters of these monographs. The afore-mentioned efforts was crowned by the first volume of the publication Lidové kroje v Československu [Folk Costumes in Czechoslovakia], issued by Drahomíra Stránská in 1949. In terms of methodology, the publication became an inspiration for a generation of female research fellows who based on its spirit their struggle to assess the historical development of folk dress in particular regions. Marxist ethnography brought up new research theme in the 1950s – the interest in the life of the working classes and inhabitants in industrial areas. Later-on, the research got rid of political indoctrination, and the new methodological basis made it possible to focus not only on the historical dimension, but also on the social and cultural role of clothing in the history of the 19th and 20th centuries.
EN
The article summarizes the results of research by Czech ethnologists and sociocultural anthropologists on groups of Czech compatriots in the Balkans. The first part of the text is a short introduction to the issue, where the reader learns about the historical context, locations and circumstances of the formation of Czech compatriot groups. The following text is structured into three parts, which are defined by major historical events that have significantly influenced Czech society and Czech social sciences. The main aim of this article is to provide the reader with an overview of the key research papers that deal with the topic of compatriots in the Balkans. Furthermore, it will summarize and briefly assess the trends and methods that were a typical for the period. An important part of this text is the accompanying list of literature, which is a (selective) selection of the most important research papers of Czech ethnologists and anthropologists on compatriots in the Balkans.
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