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1 Pomorania Antiqua

1 2024

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Badania kolorystyki tekstyliów ze średniowiecznego cmentarzyska pruskiego w Równinie Dolnej (pow. kętrzyński)

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Martyka K. , Lech K.

Pomorania Antiqua

2024

tom Tom XXXIII

239–268

The presented research concerns textiles from late medieval (ca. 14th century) graves Nos. 27 and 43, discovered in the cemetery as a result of research by Romuald Odoj in 1957. Collected information, along with analysis of the grave goods, was to help to determine the social status of the buried people and to contribute to considerations on the interpretation of similar cemeteries in other parts of former East Prussia. The HPLC-UV-Vis-MS/MS technique was used to analyse the dyes, which allows for the detection of trace amounts of organic dyeing compounds in heavily degraded objects. The analysis showed that local plant and animal colourants were used to dye wool, covering colours from blue, through green, yellow, orange to red. The use of undyed wool was also confirmed. Another noteworthy find is the heraldic sign embossed on a leather fragment from grave 43. Non-European dyes (indigo and shellac red) were identified on silk fragments, which corresponds to the Far Eastern origin of the raw material. The studies carried out suggest that the people buried in the aforementioned graves belonged to the local elite, perhaps associated with the Teutonic stronghold of Wiesenburg. Despite the presence of valuable fabrics, both the selection of some of the grave goods (amulets, a ‘Totenkrone’ type necklace) and the fact that they were buried in a cemetery outside the church boundaries indicate a strong connection between the deceased as well as their relatives and the local Old Prussian ethnos. The presented results, apart from the partial reconstruction of the colours of the 14th-century Bartians' funeral attire, constitute a starting point for assessing the wealth, access to goods and susceptibility to the influence of Christian culture among the Old Prussian nobility.