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1
Content available remote Znaczenie czynnika ekologicznego w inżynierii morskiej
100%
Massel S. R.
Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika
|
2001
|
tom nr 6
343-347
PL
Wpływ działalności człowieka na morskie środowisko przybrzeżne. Projektowanie budowli morskich na obszarach wrażliwych ekologicznie wraz z zaleceniami projektowymi.
EN
Influence of mankind activity on marine coastal environment. Design of marine engineering structures in the area sensitive to ecology together with designing recommendations.
2
Content available Surface waves in deep and shallow waters
100%
Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2010
|
tom 52
|
nr 1
5-52
EN
The motion of water due to surface waves is the most dynamic factor observed in the marine environment. In this review various aspects of the wave modelling of non-linear, steep surface waves and their role in the atmosphere-ocean interaction are discussed. Significant improvements in wave forecasting have been made in the last ten years. This is to a large extent related to substantial progress in the description of wind forcing and other processes, as well as to the more efficient use of satellite observations and assimilation methods. One striking observation is the increasing variety and complexity of models in which more physical processes are implemented, greater precision and resolution achieved and extended ranges of applicability demonstrated. However, in order to evaluate the applicability of particular models, comparison with high quality experimental data, collected in nature or under laboratory conditions, is necessary.
3
Content available Modelling flow in the porous bottom of the Barents Sea shelf
100%
Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2013
|
tom 55
|
nr 1
4
Content available On the geometry of ocean surface waves
100%
Massel S. R.
|
|
nr 2
EN
The factors influencing the atmosphere-ocean transfer of mass and momentum, as well as incipient wave breaking and the amount of energy dissipated due to breaking, are discussed in detail. In particular, the influence of directional spreading on the statistics of surface wave slopes and the area of the wind- roughened ocean surface is demonstrated. Theoretical analysis and comparison with the available experimental data show that unimodal directional spreading is not able to reproduce the observed ratio of the cross-wind/up-wind mean square slopes. Better agreement is achieved when bimodal directional spreading, consisting of two wrapped-Gaussian distributions, is applied. The bimodal form suggested by Ewans (1998) is used in the paper. Moreover, the formulae developed here show that the increase in the area due to surface waves is rather small for both regular and irregular waves.
5
Content available remote On the nonlinear internal waves propagating in an inhomogeneous shallow sea
100%
Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2016
|
tom No. 58 (2)
59--70
EN
A concept of conservation of energy flux for the internal waves propagating in an inhomogeneous shallow water is examined. The emphasis is put on an application of solution of the Korteweg–de Vries (KdV) equation in a prescribed form of the cnoidal and solitary waves. Numerical simulations were applied for the southern Baltic Sea, along a transect from the Bornholm Basin, through the Słupsk Sill and Słupsk Furrow to the Gdańsk Basin. Three-layer density structure typical for the Baltic Sea has been considered. An increase of wave height and decrease of phase speed with shallowing water depth was clearly demonstrated. The internal wave dynamics on both sides of the Słupsk Sill was found to be different due to different vertical density stratification in these areas. The bottom friction has only negligible influence on dynamics of internal waves, while shearing instability may be important only for very high waves. Area of possible instability, expressed in terms of the Richardson number Ri, is very small, and located within the non-uniform density layer, close to the interface with upper uniform layer. Kinematic breaking criteria have been examined and critical internal wave heights have been determined.
6
Content available Circulation of groundwater due to wave set-up on a permeable beach
100%
Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2001
|
tom 43
|
nr 3
279-290
EN
Sandy beaches are highly exploited but very dynamic and fragile environments. Driven by waves, the water flow through the beach body is able to transport oxygen, and hence help to maintain biological activity in the porous media. The paper presents a theoretical attempt to predict the groundwater circulation due to wave set-up. Two systems of circulations have been discovered, related to two different gradients of the set-up height. For the offshore gradient, the horizontal excess pressure gradient induces flow in the offshore direction. However, closer to the shore, the pressure gradient is reversed and the resulting flow moves shorewards.
7
Content available remote Surface waves in deep and shallow waters
100%
Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2010
|
tom No. 52 (1)
5-52
EN
The motion of water due to surface waves is the most dynamic factor observed in the marine environment. In this review various aspects of the wave modelling of non-linear, steep surface waves and their role in the atmosphere-ocean interaction are discussed. Significant improvements in wave forecasting have been made in the last ten years. This is to a large extent related to substantial progress in the description of wind forcing and other processes, as well as to the more efficient use of satellite observations and assimilation methods. One striking observation is the increasing variety and complexity of models in which more physical processes are implemented, greater precision and resolution achieved and extended ranges of applicability demonstrated. However in order to evaluate the applicability of particular models, comparison with high quality experimental data, collected in nature or under laboratory conditions, is necessary.
8
Content available On the nonlinear internal waves propagating in an inhomogeneous shallow sea
100%
Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2016
|
tom 58
|
nr 2
9
Content available remote Water dynamics in estuaries along the Polish Baltic coast
63%
Jasińska E. , Massel S. R.
Oceanological and Hydrobiological Studies
|
2007
|
tom Vol. 36, No.2
101-133
EN
Estuaries are areas where river and sea waters meet. Therefore, the hydrodynamical, hydrochemical, and hydrobiological processes in the estuaries are typical for both environments. The most important processes, which play leading roles in estuaries include the dynamics of water flow, water quality, and the mixing of water of different biochemical characteristics. This paper is divided into two parts. In the first, basic hydrodynamical processes are described and analytical and numerical methods of evaluating them are presented. Part two illustrates these processes using experimental data and the results of mathematical modeling for some estuaries along the Polish Baltic coast.
10
Content available remote Experiments on wave motion and suspended sediment concentration at Nang Hai, Can Gio mangrove forest, Southern Vietnam
63%
Hong Phuoc V. L. , Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2006
|
tom No. 48 (1)
23-40
EN
Biogeochemical and trophodynamic processes as well as hydrodynamic factors play a major role in the structure and function of mangrove ecosystems. This study outlines field experiments on wave motion and suspended sediment concentration carried out at Nang Hai, Can Gio mangrove forest, Southern Vietnam. Pressure sensors were used to measure sea surface elevation, and Optical Backscatter Sensors (OBS) were applied to detect infrared (IR) radiation scattered from suspended particles in order to measure turbidity and suspended sediment concentrations. The experimental results indicate that most of the energy is dissipated inside the mangrove forest as a result of wave-trunk interactions and wave breaking. The suspended sediment concentration depends on wave intensity and tidal current velocity. Wave action is one of the main factors forcing sediment transport and coastal erosion at the study site; even the wave field at the study site is not so strong. The establishment of mangrove vegetation can encourage the deposition of sediment, or at least the retention of the flood-tide sediment influx.
11
Content available Surface wave generation due to glacier calving
63%
Massel S. R. , Przyborska A.
Oceanologia
|
2013
|
tom 55
|
nr 1
12
Content available Run-up of dispersive and breaking waves on beaches
63%
Massel S. R. , Pelinovsky E. N.
Oceanologia
|
2001
|
tom 43
|
nr 1
EN
Transformation of waves on sandy beaches, their breaking, set-up and run-up are the main factors contributing to fluctuations in the water table and groundwater flow. In this paper, the run-up mechanisms have been studied using analytical models. In contrast to the standard models, the waves approaching the shoreline are assumed to be dispersive and the equivalence of the non-linear and linear solutions for the extreme characteristics of wave run-up, such as the height of maximum run-up and the velocity of run-up, are used. A linear system of equations for the run-up of breaking waves is developed. This system is based on the application of the mild-slope equation in the deeper area, where waves are dispersive, while the linear equations of shallow water are applied close to the shoreline, where the water depth is a linear function of distance. The dissipation factor in the shallow water equation has been formulated using its resemblance to the mild-slope equation for a non-permeable sea bottom. Application of the method is illustrated for various bottom profiles and wave characteristics, and theoretical results compared well with experimental data. These solutions of the run-up phenomena will assist future studies on wave-induced beach groundwater flow.
13
Content available Experiments on wave motion and suspended sediment concentration at Nang Hai, Can Gio mangrove forest, Southern Vietnam
63%
Hong Phuoc V. L. , Massel S. R.
Oceanologia
|
2006
|
tom 48
|
nr 1
EN
Biogeochemical and trophodynamic processes as well as hydrodynamic factors play a major role in the structure and function of mangrove ecosystems. This study outlines field experiments on wave motion and suspended sediment concentration carried out at Nang Hai, Can Gio mangrove forest, Southern Vietnam. Pressure sensors were used to measure sea surface elevation, and Optical Backscatter Sensors (OBS) were applied to detect infrared (IR) radiation scattered from suspended particles in order to measure turbidity and suspended sediment concentrations. The experimental results indicate that most of the energy is dissipated inside the mangrove forest as a result of wave-trunk interactions and wave breaking. The suspended sediment concentration depends on wave intensity and tidal current velocity. Wave action is one of the main factors forcing sediment transport and coastal erosion at the study site; even the wave field at the study site is not so strong. The establishment of mangrove vegetation can encourage the deposition of sediment, or at least the retention of the flood-tide sediment influx.
14
Water dynamics in estuaries along the Polish Baltic coast
63%
Jasinska E. , Massel S. R.
Oceanological and Hydrobiological Studies
|
2007
|
tom 36
|
nr 2
15
Content available remote Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 1
51%
Massel S. R. , Przyborska A. , Przyborski M.
Oceanologia
|
2004
|
tom No. 46 (3)
383-404
EN
A coastal aquifer has a dynamic seaward boundary at the beach face where physical and ecological processes are influenced by oceanic water level fluctuations. Many basic groundwater concepts and the role of the impact of groundwater seepage on beach ecosystems are still poorly understood. Studies are needed to improve our understanding of the relationships between surface and subsurface flow processes on beaches. This is particularly helpful in clarifying the interaction of the physical processes, biodiversity and productivity of sandy beaches, sediment transport and coastal structure stability and modern beach nourishment techniques. As the estimation of infiltration into beach sand is very difficult to carry out under real sea conditions, a control led large-scale laboratory experiment was carried out in the Large Wave Channel in Hannover (Germany) as part of a project supported by the European Community (contract HPRI-CT-2001-00157). First part of the paper describes the technology applied in the experiment and reports some preliminary results.
16
Content available Attenuation of wave-induced groundwater pressure in shallow water. Part 2. Theory
51%
Massel S. R. , Przyborska A. , Przyborski M.
|
|
nr 3
17
Content available Experimental study of the formation of steep waves and breakers
38%
Massel S. R. , Tegowski J. , Chomka M. , Wichorowski M. , Dabrowski J. , Stansberg C. T. , Moe V.
Oceanologia
|
2001
|
tom 43
|
nr 3
353-363
EN
Breaking waves (whitecaps) are one of the most important and least understood processes associated with the evolution of the surface gravity wave field in the open sea. This process is the principal means by which energy and momentum are transferred away from a developing sea. However, an estimation of the frequency of breaking waves or the fraction of sea surface covered by whitecaps and the amount of dissipated energy induced by breaking is very difficult to carry out under real sea conditions. A controlled experiment, funded by the European Commission under the Improving Human Potential Access Infrastructures programme, was carried out in the Ocean Basin Laboratory at MARINTEK, Trondheim (Norway). Simulation of random waves of the prescribed spectra by wave makers provided a very realistic pattern of the sea surface. The number of breaking waves was estimated by photographing the sea surface and recording the noise caused by the breaking waves. The experimental data will serve for calibration of the theoretical models of the sea surface fraction related to the whitecaps.
18
Content available remote Basis for a valuation of the Polish Exclusive Economic Zone of the Baltic Sea: Rationale and quest for tools
20%
Węsławski J. M. , Andrulewicz E. , Kotwicki L. , Kuzebski E. , Lewandowski A. , Linkowski T. , Massel S. R. , Musielak S. , Olańczuk-Neyman A. , Pempkowiak J. , Piekarek-Jankowska H. , Radziejewska T. , Różyński G. , Sagan I. , Skóra K. E. , Szefler K. , Urbański J. , Witek Z. , Wołowicz M. , Zachowicz J. , Zarzycki T.
Oceanologia
|
2006
|
tom No. 48 (1)
145-167
EN
This paper summarises current knowledge of goods and services in the Polish Exclusive Economic Zone of the Baltic Sea ecosystem. It reviews specific properties of the Baltic that could be used for economic valuation. Goods and services range from the familiar resources of fish and minerals, which were valued with the Productivity Method, to less obvious services provided by the ecosystem such as biofiltration in coastal sands, valued with either the Replacement Cost or Damage Cost Avoided methods. Disservices to the marine ecosystem are also considered, e.g. erosion and coastal flooding, including the costs of planned mitigating measures. This paper emphasises the importance of using valuation methods to help make better-educated decisions for the sustainability of the Baltic Sea.
19
Content available Basic for a valuation of the Polish Exclusive Economic Zone of the Baltic Sea: Rationale and quest for tools
20%
Weslawski J. M. , Andrulewicz E. , Kotwicki L. , Kuzebski E. , Lewandowski A. , Linkowski T. , Massel S. R. , Musielak S. , Olanczuk-Neyman K. , Pempkowiak J. , Piekarek-Jankowska H. , Radziejewska T. , Rozynski G. , Sagan I. , Skora K. E. , Szefler K. , Urbanski J. , Witek Z. , Wolowicz M. , Zachowicz J. , Zarzycki T.
Oceanologia
|
2006
|
tom 48
|
nr 1
EN
This paper summarises current knowledge of goods and services in the Polish Exclusive Economic Zone of the Baltic Sea ecosystem. It reviews specific properties of the Baltic that could be used for economic valuation. Goods and services range from the familiar resources of fish and minerals, which were valued with the Productivity Method, to less obvious services provided by the ecosystem such as biofiltration in coastal sands, valued with either the Replacement Cost or Damage Cost Avoided methods. Disservices to the marine ecosystem are also considered, e.g. erosion and coastal flooding, including the costs of planned mitigating measures. This paper emphasises the importance of using valuation methods to help make better-educated decisions for the sustainability of the Baltic Sea.
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