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Open-back Shoes from the Southern Crypt in Piaseczno, Pomerania Province

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Kulesz A. , Grupa M.

Acta Universitatis Lodziensis. Folia Archaeologica

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2020

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nr 35

137-149

PL

Dyskusja na temat nowożytnego obuwia jest dość ograniczona ze względu na szczupłość źródeł pozyskiwanych w czasie badań archeologicznych. Jednak tę lukę uzupełniają w jakiejś mierze kolekcje muzealne i ikonografia. Dlatego tak istotne jest publikowanie kolejnych znalezisk, bo tylko w oparciu o nie można podjąć dyskusję na temat pojedynczych egzemplarzy obuwia z wolną pietą. Taka właśnie para została znaleziona w południowej krypcia kościoła pw. Narodzenia Najświętszej Marii Panny w Piasecznie. Należy ona do unikatowych obiektów, ponieważ można określić jej wszystkie elementy oraz jakość skóry, która raczej należała do grubych. Ogólny stan zachowania obuwia można określić jako dobry. Powierzchnia skóry na podeszwach, obcasach oraz przyszwach świadczy o intensywnym użytkowaniu wyrobu za życia właściciela. Zostały one wykonane bez rozróżnienia kroju dla prawej i lewej stopy, ale odkształcenia wynikające ze znoszenia pozwalają ocenić, który pantofel noszono, na której stopie. Opisywana powyżej para pantofli odnaleziona w Piasecznie stanowi ciekawy przyczynek do dyskusji na temat obuwia z wolną piętą w ogóle. Podstawową trudność w interpretacji takiego znaleziska może sprawiać określenie funkcji, jaką pełniło. Funkcje obuwia ochronnego i obuwia domowego do pewnego momentu lub w specyficznych okolicznościach mogły przenikać się. Jednak wydaje się, że w czasach nowożytnych konstruowano oddzielne pary obuwia służącego jednym i drugim celom. Niestety, jedynymi przesłankami pozwalającymi skłaniać się ku którejś z tez są raczej subiektywne kategorie masywności i wielkości obuwia oraz różnorodność zastosowanych surowców. W artykule posłużono się szeregiem określeń obuwia z wolną piętą (patynki, mule, mulety, kapcie, pantofle), by unaocznić bogactwo językowe. Z pewnością w latach minionych określone modele miały swoje nazwy, niestety szczupłość przekazów nastręcza wielkie trudności w rekonstruowaniu dawnej rzeczywistości językowej.

EN

A discussion on modern shoes is limited on account of the scarcity of sources provided by archaeological research. This gap is to a certain extent filled by museum collections and iconography. This is why it is so important to publish new finds as one can only initiate discussion on isolated artefacts of open-back shoes based on such publications. Such a pair was found in the southern crypt of the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Piaseczno. These are unique objects as it is possible to identify all their elements and to determine the quality of leather, which was rather thick. Their general state of preservation is good. The condition of the leather on the soles, heels, and uppers indicates that the shoes were intensively used when their owner was alive. There is no difference in cut between the left and the right shoe, however, deformations resulting from wearing allow to say which shoe was worn on which foot. The pair of shoes found in Piaseczno and described above represents a valuable contribution to the discussion on open-back shoes. When interpreting such finds, the basic difficulty is the determination of their function. In specific circumstances, functions of overshoes and home shoes could to a certain extent overlap. However, it seems that in the modern era separate pairs of shoes were made to serve these different purposes. Unfortunately, the only evidence that would allow to lean towards one of the options involves the categories of massiveness and size of the shoes, and the diversity of the materials used. The paper uses a number of names for open-back shoes (pattens, mules, chopines, slippers, pantables) to reflect the linguistic richness. There is no doubt that different designs used to have individual names, however, the scarcity of accounts makes it very difficult to reconstruct the linguistic reality of old.

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Kontush Sashes from the Northern Crypt of the post-Bernardine Church of the Elevation of the Cross in Łuków (Lublin Province)

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Jarosz J. , Grupa M.

Analecta Archaeologica Ressoviensia

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2022

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tom 17

81-88

EN

An archaeological exploration conducted in 2019 in the crypts of the post-Bernardine church of the Elevation of the Cross in Łuków brought various finds of burial goods, excavated in fragments, probably transferred together with human remains in the 19th century to ossuaries located in the crypt. The artefacts included fragments of three kontush sashes, being the most indispensable and splendid element of the Polish national costume. The analysis of these objects, both in terms of ornamentation and technology, helped us to estimate their probable manufacturing location.

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Odzież z krypt grobowych archikatedry w Lublinie. Analiza kostiumologiczna

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Drążkowska A. , Grupa M.

Kwartalnik Historii Kultury Materialnej

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2012

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tom 60

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nr 2

319-329

EN

During the exploration of St John’s metropolitan cathedral in Lublin in 2002 a large collection of lay clothing was gathered from the crypts under the southern aisle. Apart from garments and accessories the finds included fragments of textiles used to line coffins, cushions, scapulars and haberdashery (lace, gold and silver braid, silk cords). Unfortunately, only a few selected garments underwent conservation. Despite the poor condition of the remaining items, and taking into consideration that they will decay with time, the whole collection of 70 items was analysed from the costume-studies perspective. The garments were divided into two classes: those that were normally worn before the burial and those that were prepared especially for the burial. The division was based on differences in cut, in ways of joining elements and in trimming. Within the first class three categories were further distinguished: men’s national dress, men’s clothes modelled on Western fashion and women’s clothes. Features of dress intended for normal use were also found in some accessories, e.g. headgear, belts, gloves and stockings. All the elements of those garments were carefully cut, modelled and trimmed, and they were neatly joined with close backstitch or straight stitch. The second class, that of “one-use-only” garments, comprises items in which the cut and the joining of elements indicate that they were prepared especially for the funeral and could not be normally worn. Their elements were joined with shoddy straight stitch or basted and the edges were folded and ironed flat. There were several examples of simplifying the construction by not attaching the back part of the garment. This class also embraces garments that were used as everyday clothing but were specially adjusted for the burial. Special garments sewn for burial only include the so-called “death shirts”, dresses and some headgear. Two of the items found in Lublin were children’s overcoats of Polish national style remade for burial dress. Almost all the items analyses were made of silk; the only exception is a cap cut of felt. The finds from Lublin form the largest collection of burial clothes excavated in Poland.

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Selected silk coffin upholstery from 17th and 18th centuries on Polish lands

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Grupa M. , Majorek M. , Grupa D.

Sprawozdania Archeologiczne

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2014

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tom 66

399–416

EN

Originating from wealthy families, funerals that took place in the 17th and 18th c were in fact theatrical performances, with a major part being played by colour, luxurious textiles and all other elements connected with burial ceremonies, e.g. 3000 candles. Clothes and haberdashery (as well as footwear, gloves, stockings, bands), made of silk fabrics were regarded as luxurious objects in the Middle Ages and Modern Times. Silk yarn was also used for upholstery textile production. Coffins were upholstered in these periods using: silk, wool and linen. Silk presented in the article, belongs to plain fabrics in weave 1/1, but also satins, velvets and damasks. Ornamenting motifs took the form of geometric shapes and flora. Archaeological material rarely delivers original textile colour, because it usually appears in yellow and green as a result of pigment decomposition. However, the textiles discussed here revealed red fabrics in various shades. The selected coffin upholstery comes from archaeological explorations in churches from Szczuczyn, Gniew, Lublin and Toruń.

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Wyniki nieniszczących badań mikroskopowychi spektralnych galonów grobowych z Torunia i Gdańska

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Miazga B. , Grupa M. , Grupa D.

Wiadomości Archeologiczne

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2018

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tom LXIX

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nr 69

67-78

EN

Galloons, or textile bands, in which the ornament is usually made up of metal threads, are alongside other fabrics a subject of interest for the researchers both in terms of their structure as well as the raw ma-terials used in their making. In most cases, the analysis is limited to the determination of the raw material and a description of the weave, fabric density and the type of the ornament. However, this kind of description is incomplete and requires a supplementary archaeomet-ric examination. Thanks to the archaeometry, different types of met-al threads in fabrics as well as their varied applications can be stud-ied. The literature on the subject lists many various examples of metal threads being used – made of gold, gold and silver alloys, or gilded or silver-plated copper wound on silk, linen or wool fibers. Moreo-ver, different manners of obtaining metal threads can be seen, such as by wrapping wires around a fibrous core or winding strips of metal on a silk fiber. Due to the historical value of historic textiles, archae-ometric tests are usually based on analytical methods, which should not cause significant damage to the artefacts. These are usually spec-troscopic techniques based on the use of the X-ray fluorescence (ED-XRF) and microscopic observations at various magnification levels. Four silk galloons from the archaeological research in Toruń (the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary) and Gdańsk (the Church of the Holy Trinity) were selected for the analysis (Fig. 1, 7). The galloons were used for decoration as well as to support the upholstery covering the outer surface of the coffins. The macroscopic analysis showed that the layout of the geometric pattern in the selected samples is very similar. It was created in an identical manner in all instances – through the use of an additional metal thread weft. Therefore, the primary goal of the research was to identify the raw material of the metal thread in an attempt to answer the question if all the galloons could have been produced in the same haberdashery workshop. The archaeometric examination carried out on the metal threads confirmed that they are made of gilded silver (Fig. 2, 3, 6, 9, 11, 12). Gold, which was identified in the metal threads, was applied only superficially on the metal strips and is easily abraded, which can be observed as an uneven color on the surface of the threads (Fig. 4, 5, 8, 10). In addition, due to the significant deformation of the threads that occurred during the deposition of the fabric and their poor state of preservation, it is difficult to discuss the results of the microscopic observation of the threads (Figs. 13, 14). The analysis of the results of the metallographic examination indicates that silk fibers could be wrapped with fairly diverse metal materials. Based on these findings, it cannot be determined whether the galloons were manufactured in the same haberdashery workshop.

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Rich or Modest – Analysis and Reconstruction of the Appearance of a Child’s Coffin from 1779 from the Church of St. Nicholas in Gniew (Pomerania Province, Poland)

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Kolaska K. , Michalik J. , Grupa M.

Acta Universitatis Lodziensis. Folia Archaeologica

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2020

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nr 35

57-71

PL

Badania prowadzone w kościołach dostarczają coraz więcej informacji na temat kultury funeralnej okresu baroku. Jednym z podstawowych elementów samego pogrzebu są drewniane trumny, w których składano ciała. Były one w bardzo różny sposób przygotowywane do ceremonii pogrzebowej. Najprostsze to zwykła skrzynka wykonana z obrobionych desek. Uwagę jednak zwracają te z dodatkowymi elementami na powierzchni. Dziecięca trumna znajdująca się w nawie głównej pomiędzy prezbiterium a pierwszym filarem była ozdobiona sztucznymi kwiatami wykonanymi z drutu imitującego pierwotnie złoty. I to właśnie te kwiaty zwróciły uwagę ekipy badawczej na unikatowe zdobienie trumny. Kolejnym etapem prac było oczyszczenie znalezionych ćwieków (były ich trzy rodzaje), a następnie analiza dziwnych struktur znajdujących się po lewej stronie. W wyniku tych czynności ujawniono dwa rodzaje tkanin przylegających do metalu. Wszystkie odkryte informacje pozwoliły na przygotowanie trzech wariantów wystroju powierzchni trumny z datą 1779 nabitą jednym z rodzajów ćwieków. W świetle tych przesłanek stwierdzono, że pochówek dziecka należał do bogatych, a wystrój trumny do wyjątkowo bogatych.

EN

Research conducted in churches provides more and more information about the funeral culture in the Baroque. The basic elements of a funeral were wooden coffins, in which bodies were buried. They were prepared for the funeral in different ways. The simplest were ordinary boxes made of planed boards. What draws attention, however, are those with additional elements on the outside. This child’s coffin found in the central nave between the chancel and the first pillar was decorated with artificial flowers made of wire imitating golden wire. These flowers drew the attention of the research team to the unique ornamentation of the coffin. The next stage of the work involved cleaning the studs found (three types), and then analysing the unusual structures on their underside. This revealed two types of cloth stuck to metal. All the information gathered allowed to prepare three variants of the appearance of the coffin with the year 1779 studded with one of the stud types. Considering the above, it was concluded that the child’s burial was rich, and that the coffin decorations were exceptionally sumptuous.

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A Child’s Grave Robe from the Northern Crypt of St Anne’s Church in Konotop, Lubuskie Province, Poland

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Grupa M. , Jasiak K. , Grupa D. , Nalaskowski F.

Analecta Archaeologica Ressoviensia

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2022

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tom 17

51-59

EN

An ossuary was found in a brass sarcophagus, dated to 1720 based on a medallion. The archaeological material was mixed with rubbish and sand. Inside the sarcophagus, the remains of both adults and children were discovered. These are believed to be members of the von Kottwitz family, former owners of Konotop. The separation of the material into different types of cloth was quite painstaking and lengthy. Only one of the grave robes has survived in an almost intact condition. It was a simple grave robe without a back. During the analysis of the skeletal remains, it was matched to the red stained skeleton of an infant.

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A Double Child Coffin from the Southern Crypt of the Holy Trinity Church in Radzyń Podlaski (19th Century)

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Dabralet I. , Michalik J. , Grupa M. , Gałka B.

Analecta Archaeologica Ressoviensia

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2022

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tom 17

89-100

EN

The lives of children in the past were both ephemeral and fragile. The birth of a child, although expected and prayed for, was inevitably connected with the fear of death of both the mother and child, and every childbirth was a kind of a challenge. Unfortunately, in many cases, it finished with death during the delivery or just after. Surviving childhood safely was a constant struggle for the smaller members of a community. This information is evidenced during archaeological explorations of churches and burial grounds. No matter whether they were rich or poor, death took its toll on every social group. There was only the difference in the way of burial ceremony and accessories attributed to it. Some of the child burials were comparable with the richest burials of adults. One of them, a burial in a double coffin, attracted archaeologists’ attention at the very beginning of exploration in Radzyń Podlaski. A child burial in a double coffin can be classified as a unique find, not only in the area of Poland but also in Europe.

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Results of Archaeometrical Studies on a Kontush Sash from Piaseczno (Pomorskie Province, Poland)

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Miazga B. , Grupa D. , Grupa M.

Analecta Archaeologica Ressoviensia

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2023

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tom 18

205-215

EN

Archaeometric studies on silk thread wound around with metal strips are still rarely undertaken in Poland. Their popularization seems to be necessary, however, as there are many problems to solve. In the case of a kontush sash manufactured in Gdańsk as archaeological finds, the main question is whether they used metal strips prepared by local craftsmen, what raw material was employed, and what methods of gilding were implemented. Only future regular studies and analyses can answer these questions. The article presents the results of tests on metal strips wound around silk threads coming froma kontush sash manufactured by Besch, excavated in the crypt under the presbytery of the church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Piaseczno (Pomorskie voivodeship, Poland).

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Ash wood and European hazel conservation with polyethylene glycol 400 using vacuum freeze drying

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Grupa M. , Kaźmierczak R. , Rybka K. , Płóciennik P. , Zawadzka A.

Sprawozdania Archeologiczne

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2012

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tom 64

411– 430

EN

The article presents results of the research, performed on samples of waterlogged archaeological wood: ash wood and European hazel. The preservation process was carried out using 15% and 30% of PEG 400. The consolidation process was stabilized by freeze-drying method. Next, the samples’ hardness was tested by Janka’s method.

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The “Cow-mouth” Footwear from Coffin no. 7 in the Presbytery of the St Nicholas Church in Gniew (Poland)

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Kozłowski T. , Nowosad W. , Nalaskowski F. , Grupa D. , Grupa M.

Analecta Archaeologica Ressoviensia

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2023

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tom 18

183-203

EN

This article presents a comprehensive analysis of a pair of shoes excavated during archaeological research in the chancel of the St. Nicholas Church in Gniew, found on the feet of a man over 60. It is the first pair of Renaissance “cow-mouth” type shoes excavated from a grave. The results of the study of both archaeological material (footwear, velvet headgear covered with embroidery using threads in a metal braid) and iconography – portrait depictions, group scenes, and archival sources – confirmed the high social status of the deceased.