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1

Pressure and comfort perception in the system “female body–dress”

100%

Mengna G. , Kuzmichev V. E.

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2013

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tom Vol. 13, no. 3

71--78

EN

The three-dimensional (3D) Garment virtual technology is expected to help the designers to turn own trends and ideas into the creative samples more quickly with 3D simulation and the visualization of the pressure values and stress points where the fabric might be too tight against the body. The aim of this study is to present the wearer perceptions of woven fabric in 22 anthropometrical points located on the women torso, which can then be helpful to accurately predict the ease and tightness of a garment in 3D Garment virtual try-on system. For establishing the common principles joining the eases value designed on pattern block and the pressure perception in the system “body–dress”, we took the experiment with the women using Flexiforce Sensor® and ELF® system concerning the woman dresses with sleeve-in as the basic garment category. The objective pressure measured on seven levels of woman torso wearing the dresses designed by different ease distribution. All points and levels of the pressure measuring reflected to the daily movements, and the results obtained were compared with the corresponding subjective comfort perception from the wearer. The relationship between the ease values designed on 2D pattern and the pressure perception from the wearer were analysed to supply the theoretical reference for 3D virtual try-on system improvement.

2

Development of Knitted Materials Selection for Compression Underwear

80%

Cheng Z. , Kuzmichev V. E. , Adolphe D. C.

Autex Research Journal

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2017

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tom Vol. 17, no. 2

177--187

EN

The presented research deals with the development of comfortable male underwear taking into account the development of pattern block methods and the analysis of the relationships existing between the compression pressure, the knitted materials properties, and some push-up effects. The main aim of this study is to achieve the technical selection of the materials based on KES-FB evaluations. The ease value has been used as the main index to connect the structural design of underwear, on one hand, and the body sizes, on other hand. A “bodyshell” system for testing the soft tissue of male bodies by FlexiForce sensor has been implemented. The pressures under the shells at six different places on the male body with ease changing have been tested. The collected results including maximum-possible pressure and material tensile indexes measured thanks to KES-FB have been analyzed in order to find the most relevant indexes of the material properties. A mathematical equations based on relationships combining theoretical model with practical application have been established. These equations will be helpful for the consumers and designers to select “the suitable knitting materials for male underwear” and they can be used too in the perspective of parameterization in CAD, in order to improve product developments efficiency.

3

Human-Friendly Design of Virtual System “female body-dress”

80%

Guo M. , Kuzmichev V. E. , Adolphe D. C.

Autex Research Journal

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2015

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tom Vol. 15, no. 1

19--29

EN

Recently, the development efforts focused on the computer simulation of garments, which depend on the material's physico-mechanical properties. It intends to achieve the best possible and realistic simulations of garments, which are available for pressure prediction. In this manner, 3D garment virtual technology improvements allow the visualization of pressure areas with values where the fabric might be too tight against the body. Although the purposes of simulation graphics were acceptable, the accuracy for apparel shaping is not enough to meet the needs of Virtual Prototyping and CAD utilization especially while the fabric properties system design was inadequate. Moreover, the existing pressure simulation is intended to simply predict the pressure index or how the textile deformation extend, which are deficient in real human's perception. In this research, the 3D shapes belonging to typical female bodies and dresses made of different fabrics were obtained by 3D body scanners (ScanWorX and TELMAT). Through reconstruction for the 3D torso shapes, the volumetric eases between body and dress were calculated by means of a software Rhinoceros. A new approach for the selection of textile properties based on the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was proposed to investigate its relations with dress shaping and pressure comfort. Finally, fabric properties tested by the KES-F system were compared with volumetric eases, objective pressure indexes and subjective comfort scores to reveal the relations how the fabric properties have impacts on dress outside shaping and inside pressure comfort of a female body. In this manner, the human-friendly CAD instead of mechanical approach existing before has been presented as a new approach to promote the construction of a realistic system for the 3D simulation optimization.

4

Improvment of Clothes Fit for Different Female Bodies

80%

Surikova O. V. , Kuzmichev V. E. , Surikova G. I.

Autex Research Journal

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2017

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tom Vol. 17, no. 2

111--119

EN

The factors influencing for fit and suit of women’s clothing have been studied. The main reason of misfit is the nonconformity between the front and back width of pattern block, the corresponding body sizes taken across the hipline, and the textile materials properties. To predict the behavior of textile fabrics in real clothes including the shear deformation and wrinkles appearing, the special test and device have been designed. The developed method of pattern block making includes the test of clothes proportionality based on the female bodies sizes, pattern block indexes, and textile fabrics properties. Features of “figure-clothes” systems in-cluding the vertical designing lines, styles, volume of clothes, ease allowance and its distribution between the back, armhole, and front of the pattern blocks were taken into consideration. Recommendations in terms of selecting the proper design of style for different sizes of female bodies have been made.