Application of numerical wave model swan for analysis of waves in the surf zone

• Autorzy: Reda, A. , Paplińska, B.
• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

The numerical wave model SWAN has been used for wave modelling at the Coastal Research Facility at Lubiatowo. This study tested the performance of SWAN in the surf zone with four longshore bars. This is the first stage of the work heading towards a widening of the wave forecast for the Polish nearshore. The analysis concerned changes in the space and time of chosen wave parameters: significant wave height, mean wave period, mean wave direction. Modelled wave parameters were compared with measurements taken during the field experiment in 1996. The conformity is generally reasonable although the model tends to underestimate the significant wave height, particularly for higher waves. Further studies are planned to determine the reason behind this phenomenon.

Słowa kluczowe

EN

numerical wave modelling; wind waves; wave parameter; surf zone; model SWAN

• Czasopismo: Oceanological Studies
• Rocznik: 2002
• Tom: Vol. 31, No. 1-2
• Strony: 5-21
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 8 poz., tab., wykr.

Twórcy

autor

Reda, A.

• Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdańsk, Poland ,

autor

Paplińska, B.

• Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences ul. Kościerska 7, 80-953 Gdansk, Poland

Bibliografia

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• [2]. Booij N., Ris R. C., Holthuijsen L. H., 1999, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions. 1. Model description and validation, J. Geoph. Res., 104, No. C4, 7649-7666.
• [3]. Cieślikiewicz W., Herman A., 2001, Modelowanie falowania wiatrowego Morza Bałtyckiego i Zatoki Gdańskiej, Inżynieria Morska i Geotechnika, 4, 173-184.
• [4]. Holthuijsen L. H., Booij N., Ris R. C., Haagsma I. J. G., Kieftenburg A. T. M. M., 1999, SWAN Cycle 2 version 40.01 User Manual, 106.
• [5]. Jakubiak B., 1997, Simulation of the frontal system evolution by NWP model, Proc. INM/WMO Int. Symp. Cyclones and Hazardous Weather in the Mediterranean, Palma de Mallorca (Spain), 669-674.
• [6]. Paplińska B., 1999, Wave analysis at Lubiatowo and in the Pomeranian Bay based on measurenzents from 1997/1998 - comparision with modelled data (WAM4 model), Oceanologia, 41 (2), 241-254.
• [7]. Paplińska B., Reda A., 2000, Rozpoznanie transformacji widma falowania w strefie brzegowej z wykorzystaniem modelu SWAN, Raport wew. IBWPAN, Gdańsk.
• [8]. Paplińska B., Reda A., 2001, Regional variability of the wave climate at the Polish coast of the Baltic Sea, Księga Jubileuszowa poświęcona 70-leciu urodzin Profesora Piotra Wilde, Wydawnictwo IBW PAN, Gdańsk, 191-217.