The Effects of Elastane Yarn Type and Fabric Density on Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Seam Damage of PET/Elastane Woven Fabrics

• Autorzy: Gurarda, A. , Meric, B.

Warianty tytułu

PL

Wpływ stosowania przędzy elastomerowej i gęstości tkaniny na siłę penetracji igły do szycia i uszkodzenia szwów w tkaninach PET/elastomer

• Języki publikacji: EN

Abstrakty

EN

This paper presents the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric density on the seam performance of PET/ elastane woven fabrics. In this study, 12 different weft stretched fabrics were woven with 2 different weft yarns, 2 different weave types and 3 different weft densities. The weft and warp yarns of the weft stretched fabrics were polyester- elastane covered yarn and polyester yarn, respectively. Air-covered and twisted elastane weft yarns were used at twill and plain fabrics. Needle penetration forces were determined on an L&M Sewability tester for seam performance. Besides this, “needle damage index” was calculated for seam damage. The values of the needle penetration forces were between 64 cN and 370 cN and the needle damage index values were between 18% and 73%. Elastane yarn type and fabric density had significant effects on the needle penetration force. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the seam damage during sewing.

PL

Badano wpływ przędzy elastomerowej i gęstości tkaniny na jakość szwów. Utkano 12 tkanin o różnej rozciągliwości w kierunku wątku, stosując 2 różne nitki poliestrowe i poliestrowo-elastomerowe. Określono siłę penetracji igły i jakość szwu. Dodatkowo obliczono tzw. „indeks” uszkodzenia igły charakteryzujący uszkodzenie szwu. Stwierdzono działanie sił o wartości od 64 cN do 370 cN oraz „indeks” pomiędzy 18% a 73%. Zarówno udział przędzy elastomerowej jak i gęstość tkaniny miały wyraźny wpływ na siłę penetracji. Zamieszczone zdjęcia mikroskopowe ilustrują uszkodzenia szwu podczas szycia.

Słowa kluczowe

PL

gęstość; indeks uszkodzenia igły; siła penetracji igły; skręcona przędza elastan

EN

air-covered elastane yarn; density; needle damage index; needle penetration force; twisted elastane yarn

• Czasopismo: Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe
• Rocznik: 2007
• Tom: Vol. 15, no. 4 (63)
• Strony: 73--76
• Opis fizyczny: Bibliogr. 13 poz., tab.

Twórcy

autor

Gurarda, A.

• Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Architecture, Uludag University, Bursa, Turkey,

autor

Meric, B.

• Department of Textile Engineering, Faculty of Engineering and Architecture, Uludag University, Bursa, Turkey,

Bibliografia

• 1. Carr H., Latham B.; “ The Technology of Clothing Manufacture”, BSP Professional Books, 1988, pp. 113, ISBN 0-632-02193-4.
• 2. Gotlih K.; “Sewing Needle Penetration Force Study”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 1997, Vol. 9 , No.3, pp. 241-248.
• 3. Gotlih K., Lojen D.; “The Relation Between The Viscoelastic Properties of the Thread and Sewing Needle Penetration Force”, 78th World Conference of The Textile Instıtute in Association with 5th Textile Symposium of Seve and Sepve, Greece, 1997, pp. 133-147.
• 4. Meinander H., Jylha A., Kelloniemi E.; “Textile Objective Measurement and Automation in Garment Manufacture” , Ellis Horwood Lmt.England, 1991, pp. 151.
• 5. Hunter L., Cawood M.P.; “The Correlation Between Two Different Sewability Tests and the Effect of Certain Wool Fibre and Fabric Properties on the Sewability of woven Fabrics”, Sawtri Technical Report, 1982, No: 510.
• 6. Mehta V. H.; “An Introduction of Quality Control for the Apparel Industry”, ASQC Milwaukee Wisconsin, 1992, pp. 87.
• 7. Mukhopadhyay A, Sikka M, Karmakar A. K.; “Impact of Laundering on the Seam Tensile Properties of Suiting Fabric”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2004, Vol. 16, No. 4, pp. 394-403.
• 8. Gersak J.; “Study of Relationship Between Fabric Elastic Potential and Garment Appearance Quality”, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 2004, Vol. 16, pp. 238-251.
• 9. Lomov S.; “ A Predictive Model for Penetration Force of a Woven Fabric by a Needle” ,International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,1998, Vol. 10, pp. 91-103.
• 10. Ujevic D., Kovacevic S., Hadina J., Karabegovic I.; “Influence of Seam on Deformation of Yarn in Woven and Knitted Fabrics”, International Textile, Clothing and Design Conference, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 2002, pp. 419-424.
• 11. Gurarda A., Meric B.; “ Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Elastane Fibre Damage during the Sewing of Cotton/Elastane Woven Fabrics”, Textile Research Journal, 2005, Vol. 75, No. 8, pp. 628-633.
• 12. Gurarda A., Meric B.; “The Effect of Silicone and Pre-Fixation Temperature on the Elastic Properties of Cotton/Elastane Woven Fabrics”, AATCC Review, 2005, Vol. 5, No. 9, pp. 53-56.
• 13. American Society for Testing and Materials, Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Textiles and Yarns, Fabrics and General test Methods, Standard Specification for Tensile Testing For Textiles, “The Needle-Related Damage Due to Sewing in woven Fabrics”, ASTM Designation: D 1908-89, ASTM, Easton, PA,1990.