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2017 | Vol. 17, no. 3 | 277--286
Tytuł artykułu

Effects Of Combinations Of Patternmaking Methods And Dress Forms On Garment Appearance

Warianty tytułu
Języki publikacji
EN
Abstrakty
EN
We investigated the effects of the combinations of patternmaking methods and dress forms on the appearance of a garment. Six upper garments were made using three patternmaking methods used in France, Italy, and Japan, and two dress forms made in Japan and France. The patterns and the appearances of the garments were compared using geometrical measurements. Sensory evaluations of the differences in garment appearance and fit on each dress form were also carried out. In the patterns, the positions of bust and waist darts were different. The waist dart length, bust dart length, and positions of the bust top were different depending on the patternmaking method, even when the same dress form was used. This was a result of differences in the measurements used and the calculation methods employed for other dimensions. This was because the ideal body shape was different for each patternmaking method. Even for garments produced for the same dress form, the appearances of the shoulder, bust, and waist from the front, side, and back views were different depending on the patternmaking method. As a result of the sensory evaluation, it was also found that the bust and waist shapes of the garments were different depending on the combination of patternmaking method and dress form. Therefore, to obtain a garment with better appearance, it is necessary to understand the effects of the combinations of patternmaking methods and body shapes.
Wydawca

Rocznik
Strony
277--286
Opis fizyczny
Bibliogr. 18 poz.
Twórcy
autor
  • Shinshu University, Graduate School of Science and Technology, Ueda, Nagano, 3-15-1 Tokida, 386-8567, Japan
autor
  • Division of Kansei and Fashion Engineering, Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Faculty of Textile Science and Technology, Shinshu University, 3-15-1 Tokida, Ueda, Nagano 386-8567, Japan
autor
  • Division of Kansei and Fashion Engineering, Institute for Fiber Engineering (IFES), Interdisciplinary Cluster for Cutting Edge Faculty of Textile Science and Technology, Shinshu University, 3-15-1 Tokida, Ueda, Nagano 386-8567, Japan, kimko@shinshu-u.ac.jp
Bibliografia
  • [1] Kim, K., Otani, T., Takatera, M. (2015). Effect of patternmaker’s proficiency on the creation of clothing. Proceedings of the 1st International Symposium on Affective Science and Engineering (ISASE2015), A2-2, March 22-23, 2015, Tokyo, Japan.
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  • [4] Become a pattern drafter 1 women’s garments, Esmod editions, Paris, France (2009).
  • [5] Joseph-Armstrong, H. (2010). Patternmaking for fashion design. (Fifth Ed.). Pearson Education, Inc. (New Jersey).
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  • [7] Kiisel, K. (2013). Draping: the complete course. Laurence King Publishing (London).
  • [8] Aldrich, W. (2014) Metric pattern cutting for women’s wear, fifth edition, Blackwell Publishing (Oxford)
  • [9] Chen, C-M. (2007). Fit evaluation within the made-tomeasure process. International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 19(2), 131-144.
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  • [12] Makabe, H., Beppu, M. (1997). The construction of the basic system for the clothing pattern design (part 1). The indispensable measurement items of the upper body. The Japanese Journal of Ergonomics, 33(1), 35-46
  • [13] Kato, S. (1994). Kenwan-bu ni fitto suru kigokochi yoi genkei (Comfortable basic pattern fitted on shoulder and arm part). Research report in Aichi Education University, 53-58
  • [14] Brackelsberg, P., Farrel-Beck, J., Winakor, G. (1986). Comparing fit of basic bodices and skirts altered by traditional and experimental techniques. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal. 5(1), 34-41.
  • [15] Wang, Z., Newton, E., Ng, R., Zhang, W. (2006). Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket. Part 1: Development of a mathematical model. The Journal of the Textile Institute, 97(3), 247-256.
  • [16] Wang, Z., Newton, E., Ng, R., Zhang, W. (2006). Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket. Part 2: Application to pattern alteration, The Journal of the Textile Institute, 97(3), 257-264.
  • [17] Brockman, Helen L. (1965). The theory of fashion design, John Wiley & Sons Inc., NY.
  • [18] Scheffe, H. (1952). An analysis of variance for paired comparisons. Journal of the American Statistical Association, 47, 381-400.
Typ dokumentu
Bibliografia
Identyfikatory
Identyfikator YADDA
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