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1

Analysis of Woven Fabric at the Place of the Sewn Seam

Rogina-Car B., Schwarz I., Kovačević S.

Autex Research Journal

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2018

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Vol. 18, no. 3

216--220

EN

Key importance and the role of sewn seam in the woven fabric are presented. Fabric properties in the places joined with the sewn seam on which garment durability, applicability, appearance and quality depend are highlighted. Seam location is usually the weakest spot on the garment, especially when the great loads are present at these places. Mechanical properties of the sewn fabrics were investigated in different test conditions. The influence of the load on the sewn seam is analyzed in time intervals. Sample with seam have approximately 70% lower breaking properties (breaking force and elongation at break) than the sample without seam. By preloading the seam fabrics with 30%, 50% and 70% of elongation at break, for a 3-h period, the effect on mechanical properties were tested and the differences in pre-stretching intensity were observed. By conducting such test, it is expected that the fabric experience further degradation and that breaking properties further reduce, but the exact opposite occurred (breaking properties, by increasing the preload, increase even more), because of various material properties (structural fabric properties, raw material characteristics, seam characteristics).

2

Mechanical behaviour of seams on treated fabrics

Kordoghli B., Cheikhrouhou M., Saidene C. K.

Autex Research Journal

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2009

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Vol. 9, no. 3

87--92

EN

The purpose of this work is to find out the performance of seams after successive treatments applied to fabric. Performance of seams is given by their load/elongation behaviour. In this study, woven fabrics are chosen to investigate the effect of their chemical and mechanical finishing process (desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing and sueding) on the behaviour of the seams. Three factors have been studied: Treatment, Density (number of stitches per centimeter) and seam direction (weft or warp direction). Two responses are measured: seam elongation at break and seam breaking force. The initial fabrics properties before stitched have an important impact on the behaviour of the seams. This work explains that it is more useful to study the yield point than the rupture point; because for the wear, the elastic phase (recovery) is more import ant than the plastic phase. Studying yield point of seams explains better the reality limit of use of stitched fabrics. The increase of the number of stitches per centimetre ameliorates the breaking resistance of seam, but not the elongation at break. However the density has small effects on the yield point.

3

O konieczności nowelizacji normy ISO 4916 "Confection Articles. Seams. Classification and Symboles"

Krasowska R., Rybicki M.

Przegląd Włókienniczy - Włókno, Odzież, Skóra

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2005

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nr 6

26-30

4

Wpływ wybranych parametrów szwu na jego sprawność

Wójcik J., Frydrych Iwona

Przegląd Włókienniczy + Technik Włókienniczy

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2003

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nr 11

13-17

5

Wielkość wskaźnika przesuwalności nitek w szwie dla tkanin odzieżowych i meblowych

Gontarska E., Witkowska B.

Przegląd Włókienniczy + Technik Włókienniczy

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2001

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nr 6

16-19

6

Wpływ liczby i rodzajów szwów na układalność tkanin. Cz. I. W świetle literatury

Frydrych I., Dziworska G.

Przegląd Włókienniczy + Technik Włókienniczy

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1999

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nr 5

14-16

7

Zastosowanie lasera triangulacyjnego do oceny gniotliwości i stopnia zmarszczenia szwu

Frydrych I., Dziworska G.

Przegląd Włókienniczy + Technik Włókienniczy

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1998

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nr 9

10-13