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1
EN
Quality is the essence of any product for consumer satisfaction. However, different people have different perception of quality. Eventually the definition of quality varies from product to product and thus it is much more complex in textile clothing material evaluation. The end use application of a specific clothing material determines what should be the parameters of quality evaluation. Thus, the evaluation based on subjective assessment becomes unpredictable and unquantifiable. Quality for dress materials is not simply a physical parameter but something called as psycho-physical parameter. In recent times, many objective evaluation systems have been developed to evaluate the apparel grade textile materials with regard to their quality parameters. However, the evaluation does not involve enough statistical treatment of data so as to obtain a parametric weighted characterization of complex quality. The current work deals with parametric approach to complex quality evaluation based on multicriteria decision-making approach for ladies dress materials. The ladies dress materials are of numerous varieties and choices across the globe. The selection and marketing of these kinds of textile materials need to be given proper emphasis as it depends not only on physical parameters but also on climate, geography, ethnic group, market trend, age group, gender, and many such complex parameters, which are not quantifiable in absolute terms. In this study, woven fabrics used for ladies dress materials are collected from the market and they were evaluated for the consumer-oriented property parameters. A parametric approach is adopted to quantify the overall quality of these dress materials. Various objective techniques were used to evaluate the comfort and esthetic parameters. A complex quality index (CQI) was estimated with weighted combination of all the contributing parameters and total quality index was calculated. Selected consumers with different education level, age, and gender were interviewed to get a statistic of their opinion about quality parameters preferred by them. This complex quality index/degree of satisfaction shows very high correlation with subjective judgment. A CQI can be evaluated for each kind of clothing material looking into their applications.
2
Content available remote Human-Friendly Design of Virtual System “female body-dress”
EN
Recently, the development efforts focused on the computer simulation of garments, which depend on the material's physico-mechanical properties. It intends to achieve the best possible and realistic simulations of garments, which are available for pressure prediction. In this manner, 3D garment virtual technology improvements allow the visualization of pressure areas with values where the fabric might be too tight against the body. Although the purposes of simulation graphics were acceptable, the accuracy for apparel shaping is not enough to meet the needs of Virtual Prototyping and CAD utilization especially while the fabric properties system design was inadequate. Moreover, the existing pressure simulation is intended to simply predict the pressure index or how the textile deformation extend, which are deficient in real human's perception. In this research, the 3D shapes belonging to typical female bodies and dresses made of different fabrics were obtained by 3D body scanners (ScanWorX and TELMAT). Through reconstruction for the 3D torso shapes, the volumetric eases between body and dress were calculated by means of a software Rhinoceros. A new approach for the selection of textile properties based on the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES) was proposed to investigate its relations with dress shaping and pressure comfort. Finally, fabric properties tested by the KES-F system were compared with volumetric eases, objective pressure indexes and subjective comfort scores to reveal the relations how the fabric properties have impacts on dress outside shaping and inside pressure comfort of a female body. In this manner, the human-friendly CAD instead of mechanical approach existing before has been presented as a new approach to promote the construction of a realistic system for the 3D simulation optimization.
3
Content available remote Pressure and comfort perception in the system “female body–dress”
EN
The three-dimensional (3D) Garment virtual technology is expected to help the designers to turn own trends and ideas into the creative samples more quickly with 3D simulation and the visualization of the pressure values and stress points where the fabric might be too tight against the body. The aim of this study is to present the wearer perceptions of woven fabric in 22 anthropometrical points located on the women torso, which can then be helpful to accurately predict the ease and tightness of a garment in 3D Garment virtual try-on system. For establishing the common principles joining the eases value designed on pattern block and the pressure perception in the system “body–dress”, we took the experiment with the women using Flexiforce Sensor® and ELF® system concerning the woman dresses with sleeve-in as the basic garment category. The objective pressure measured on seven levels of woman torso wearing the dresses designed by different ease distribution. All points and levels of the pressure measuring reflected to the daily movements, and the results obtained were compared with the corresponding subjective comfort perception from the wearer. The relationship between the ease values designed on 2D pattern and the pressure perception from the wearer were analysed to supply the theoretical reference for 3D virtual try-on system improvement.
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