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Study of Specific Conditions to Control the Mechanical Behaviour of Dorlastan® Core Spun Yarn

Helali H., Babay D. A., Msahli S., Cheikhrouhou M.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2013

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Vol. 21, no. 3 (99)

55--60

EN

The mechanical properties of yarns play a phenomenal role in the quality of the end product. Studying these properties requires a specific test following international standards. As for elastic core spun yarn, knowledge of the mechanical behaviour is not obvious due to the absence of the specific condition. The aim of this study was to determine appropriate conditions to control the tenacity, elongation at break and elastic recovery of Dorlastan® core spun yarns of different linear densities (counts) (100, 50, 33.33 & 25 tex) and various elastane drafts. The results obtained show that the initial tension necessary to straighten elastic core spun yarns and eliminate their curling increases while the Dorlastan draft increases and, respectively, the Dorlastan ratios decreases. Furthermore we noted a decrease in tenacity and breaking elongation with a decrease in the dorlastan draft and, respectively, with an increase in Dorlastan ratios. On the other hand, we observed the decreasing trend of elastic recovery while the Dorlastan draft increases.

PL

Celem badań było określenie warunków dla kontroli wytrzymałości właściwej, wydłużenia przy zerwaniu, odprężenia elastycznego przędz rdzeniowych typu Dorlastan o różnych masach liniowych (100, 50, 33.33 i 25 tex) i współczynniku rozciągu przędzy elastomerowej. Badania wykazały, że jeżeli naprężenie wstępne wymagane dla wyprostowania elastycznego rdzenia przędzy i eliminacji spętlenia wzrasta kiedy współczynnik rozciągu dla przędz typu Dorlastan wzrasta. Następnie zaobserwowano, zmniejszenie wytrzymałości właściwej i wydłużenia przy zerwaniu ze zmniejszeniem współczynnika rozciągu. Z drugiej strony obserwujemy zmniejszenie tendencji elastycznego odprężenia gdy współczynnik rozciągu wzrasta.

2

Mechanical behaviour of seams on treated fabrics

Kordoghli B., Cheikhrouhou M., Saidene C. K.

Autex Research Journal

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2009

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Vol. 9, no. 3

87--92

EN

The purpose of this work is to find out the performance of seams after successive treatments applied to fabric. Performance of seams is given by their load/elongation behaviour. In this study, woven fabrics are chosen to investigate the effect of their chemical and mechanical finishing process (desizing, scouring, bleaching, dyeing and sueding) on the behaviour of the seams. Three factors have been studied: Treatment, Density (number of stitches per centimeter) and seam direction (weft or warp direction). Two responses are measured: seam elongation at break and seam breaking force. The initial fabrics properties before stitched have an important impact on the behaviour of the seams. This work explains that it is more useful to study the yield point than the rupture point; because for the wear, the elastic phase (recovery) is more import ant than the plastic phase. Studying yield point of seams explains better the reality limit of use of stitched fabrics. The increase of the number of stitches per centimetre ameliorates the breaking resistance of seam, but not the elongation at break. However the density has small effects on the yield point.

3

Porosity determination of jersey structure

Benltoufa S., Fayala F., Cheikhrouhou M., Ben Nasrallah S.

Autex Research Journal

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2007

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Vol. 7, no. 1

63--69

EN

In our paper, we attempt to investigate methods of determining jersey porosity which is this fabric's principal physical characteristic. In fact, end use, liquid absorbency, thermal comfort and resistance are closely related to pore size and distribution. So it is important to study porosity, in order to classify and determine the right use of jersey knitted structure. Many methods are used to estimate porosity, but most concern air permeability, image processing and geometry modelling. The first mentioned is used for the stretched structure, the second is valid for fabrics with high porosity levels, and the last mentioned is used to confirm any structure's conformation. The aims of this study are twofold; firstly, to recognise the most suitable and easiest method of estimating the fabric's porosity, and secondly to study the influence on porosity of various knitting parameters of jersey structure such as yarn number and count, fabric thickness, loop length, and stitch density.