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Content available remote Effect of thread structure on tension peaks during lock stitch sewing
EN
A dynamic sewing tension study was carried out with a tension probe on sewing threads with different structures, physical and tensile characteristics in a single needle lock stitch sewing machine. The needle thread recorded four major tension peaks corresponding to events occurring during sewing; bobbin thread withdrawal, stitch tightening, needle piercing the fabric and tightening of the needle thread around the shuttle, among which stitch tightening caused the maximum tension for all threads. Polyester filament and spun polyester threads exhibited the highest and lowest tightening tension, respectively . Multiple regression analysis showed that pre-tension and elastic modulus show positive influences while tex, bending, rigidity and compressibility of threads show negative effects on tension peaks during tightening and needle piercing. Sewing speed shows a positive impact only on the tension peak due to needle piercing. Pre-tension showed a prominent influence on tension peaks on all threads while the number of fabric layers failed to show any effect.
2
Content available remote Studies on structure and properties of nephila-spider silk dragline
EN
Spider dragline silk is an extremely strong biopolymer and has unique combination of desirable mechanical properties. In the present paper dragline of Golden Nephila spider was studied for dimensional, structural, physical and tensile properties. The test results established significant variability in diameter and denier of dragline filaments. The filaments possessed nearly circular cross-section and were found to be sensitive to moisture. The draglines exhibited super contraction in water. It has high strength and large elongation to break (45.9 cN/tex and 38.7 %, respectively). X-ray crystallinity of 17.5 % was obtained. The fibres were also subjected to thermo- mechanical and dynamic mechanical analysis.
EN
Reducing yarn hairiness during yarn winding by the use of air jets is a new approach, since the production rate of winding is very high and the process itself increases yarn hairiness. The Box & Behnken factorial design approach has been used to optimise the jet angle, the jet diameter, yarn linear density and the winding speed in order to reduce the yarn hairiness. A jet angle of 450, a jet diameter of 2.2 mm, 10 tex yarn and a winding speed of 800 m/min give the optimal results in terms of reducing the hairiness. A CFD (computational fluid dynamics) model has been developed to simulate the airflow pattern inside the jets with the use of Fluent 6.1 software. The air velocity around the core of the jet is the influencing factor in wrapping the hairs on the yarn body.
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