Wyniki wyszukiwania - BazTech

1

Impact of Male Body Posture and Shape on Design and Garment Fit

Petrak S., Mahnic M., Rogale D.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2015

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Vol. 23, no. 6 (114)

150--158

EN

This paper presents a study of the impact of body posture and the presence of functional and structural body changes on garment fit. 3D scanning on a sample of 50 male test subjects was performed. Body posture indicators were determined on 3D body models and a statistical analysis of the results obtained was performed. Test subjects from the sample were divided into three groups according to body posture types. Three body models with different body dimensions and different physiological spine curvature were selected and imported into a 2D/3D CAD system for computer-based garment simulation. 3D simulation of a men’s jacket in the closest garment size was performed on selected body models. Garment fit was analysed on every simulated model and based on the analysis performed, garment pattern elements and measurements where it is necessary to enable modifications were determined. The most complex part of the research refers to the development of a parametric computer-based garment model which will be able to adjust according to anthropometric body measurements and body shapes with a different physiological spine curvature. Relationships between targeted body measurements and their impact on modifications of pattern segments were investigated as a starting point for defining mathematical expressions according to which values of measurement changes on the garment pattern will be calculated. A parametric garment model pattern which enables adjustments according to different body sizes and body postures types was developed. Verification of the method developed was performed using computer-based 3D simulations on 3D body models with prominent problems of body posture.

PL

W pracy zaprezentowano badania wpływu postawy ciała i występowania funkcjonalnych i strukturalnych zmian ciała na dopasowanie ubioru. Przeprowadzano skanowanie 3D próby składającej się z 50 męskich osobników. Określono indykatory postawy na modelach 3D i przeprowadzono statystyczną analizę. Uzyskane wyniki podzielono na trzy grupy biorąc pod uwagę typy postawy ciała. Uzyskano modele o różnych wymiarach i różnych fizjologicznych krzywiznach kręgosłupa i wprowadzono je w system 2D/3D CAD dla przeprowadzenia komputerowej symulacji ubrań. Przeprowadzono symulację 3D męskiej marynarki. Analizowano dopasowanie ubioru na każdym z symulowanych modeli i na tej podstawie określono elementy wzoru i wymiary. Określono również miejsca, które należy poddać modyfikacji. Najbardziej złożona część badań dotyczyła opracowania parametrycznego modelu ubioru, który umożliwiałby dostosowanie odpowiednie do antropometrycznych wymiarów ciała i różnych fizjologicznych krzywizn kręgosłupa. Opracowano parametryczny model ubioru, który umożliwia dostosowanie do różnych kształtów ciała i typów postawy. Weryfikacja opracowanej metody została przeprowadzona przy zastosowaniu symulacji komputerowej 3D.

2

Impact of Sewing Needle and Thread on the Technological Process of Sewing Knitwear

Ujević D., Rogale D., Kartal M., Brlobašić Šajatović B.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2008

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Vol. 16, no. 4 (69)

85--89

EN

The selection of sewing needles, the fineness of sewing thread, relative air humidity, as well as the thickness and density of knitted fabric play a significant role in the technological process of sewing. Damage to knitted fabric loops during sewing are closely connected with sewing needle penetration force and dynamic tension values of the sewing thread. In this research an instrument for measuring the sewing needle penetration force and dynamic sewing thread tension force was designed.

PL

Wybór igły szyjącej, grubość zastosowanej nici, względna wilgotność powietrza, jak również grubość i gęstość szytej dzianiny odgrywają istotna rolę w technologicznym procesie szycia. Uszkodzenia oczek dzianin są ściśle związane z siłą penetracji igły i wartościami dynamicznych naprężeń nici. Dla realizacji badań wykonano specjalny przyrząd mierzący siłę penetracji igły i dynamiczne siły rozciągające występujące w nitce.

3

Influence of the softener and fineness of the sewing needle on the quality of knitwear producing process

Ujević D., Dragčević Z., Rogale D.

Zeszyty Naukowe. Włókiennictwo / Politechnika Łódzka

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2000

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z. 59

61-68

EN

The importance and the role of the softener on the cotton knitwear is described. Choosing the softener and applying appropriate concentration significantly contribute to the quality of the sewing knitwear technical process. The sewing needle, its fineness and shape of the point also have significant importance. Optimising these and other technical factors it is possible to obtain high quality of knitwear producing.

4

Investigations of the structure and process parameters of sewing operation

Zavec D., Dragevi Z., Rogale D., Gersak J.

Autex Research Journal

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1999/2000

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Vol. 1, no. 1

39--46

EN

Original measuring equipment is presented, together with the systems aimed at investigating process parameters of the operation structure and establishing optimal working methods to evaluate properly real working conditions of the man-machine system in garment engineering and technologies. The measuring equipment consists of the system for measuring and storing data on process parameters and bi-plane system of video recording. The system for measuring and data storage is equipped with four sensors, which measure rotation speed of the main shaft, arm movements in the taking and laying-off zones, as well as the movements of pedal regulator, used to manage and control the overall sewing dynamics, all in a simultaneous and contactless manner. Bi-plane system of video recordings is used to record simultaneously the working movement systems (working methods) at the workplace analysed. The operation of seam sewing on the front part of a ladies’ costume is analysed on a designed workplace, using the above described measuring equipment and system of measuring. The whole cycle of recording the technological operation included 10 consecutive executions, while the operation is performed by an operator of an average level of skill (Kpz = 1,00, coefficient of proficiency). On the basis of process parameter measurements, employing computer processing of the signals from the sensors, graphs are obtained for the technological operation structure, with the duration of individual suboperations indicated, and also showing the changes occurring in the course of sewing caused by pedal regulator movements (which manage and control the overall dynamics of sewing and the function of the processing microcomputer of the sewing machine. Bi-plane video recording system is used to investigate the working method employed, basic movements and optimal logical sets of movements, as well as the cyclograms of the movements, used to define spatial and temporal values. The results obtained are compared with the system of synthetic normal time (MTM) and indicate negligible discrepancies.