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2 2018

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Virtual Reconstruction of Historical Men’s Suit

Kuzmichev V., Moskvin A., Moskvina M.

Autex Research Journal

2018

Vol. 18, no. 3

281--294

Nowadays, the virtual technology is being widely applied in the area of clothing design and try-on. However, the possibilities of these technologies cover only the contemporary marketable clothes, while the insight in the aspect of historical costume is very limited. In this research, we developed the method that allows to reconstruct and do the virtual try-on of historical men’s suit consisting from four different garments—trousers, shirts, vest, and coat. The method includes, on one hand, the analysis of pattern drafting systems, patterns construction, special means of bespoke tailoring that were popular in the history and, on the other hand, the way of its adapting and preparing to contemporary technologies of 2D and 3D design. The exploration was done with men’s suit and the patterns from the nineteenth century. We studied how the tailors took all measurements, the content of size charts including divisional, direct measurements, and its combination. To parameterize the historical patterns of men’s clothes, we created the schedule of special indexes. We developed the method how to identify the means of garment shaping by steam pressing, which are hiding in the patterns, and how to perform ones by darts. The preparation of historical patterns to virtual try-on was done by CAD. As example, the reconstruction of full-dress suite painted on the Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha’ portrait (1840) was done, and high adequacy between the historical prototype and the virtual suit has been proved.

Development of Female Torso Classification and Method of Patterns Shaping

Wu X., Kuzmichev V., Peng T.

Autex Research Journal

2018

Vol. 18, no. 4

419--428

Our study presents a new pattern-making approach that is composed of three major steps: to establish the new torso classification; to improve the pattern shaping method; to solve the problem of misfit of female dresses. New additional measurements were obtained from full bust, waist and hip circumferences and divided between front and back parts separately from 3D body scanning data. By creating 8 new torso subtypes Y1, Y2, A1, A2, B1, B2, C1, and C2, which reflect the body characteristics and torso morphology through distribution of bust girth between the front and the back, we have developed the Chinese female torso classification. On the basis of the new classification and the Japanese method of pattern block drafting, we improved the method of calculation of waist darts and the shaping of two kinds of female dresses: first kind doesn’t have the horizontal waist seam (one-piece dress) and second kind has the waist horizontal seam (two-pieces dress containing from the top and the skirt). The new torso subtypes and new pattern block shaping approach are taken into attention as the body characteristics will significantly improve the quality of clothes. New method of pattern pieces shaping in according with the characteristic features of a 3D virtual avatar allows to integrate this virtual pattern-generating approach into the pattern-making systems.