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1

Morphology and thermal behaviour of textile fibres from the hair of domestic and wild goat species

Vineis C., Aluigi A., Tonin C.

Autex Research Journal

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2008

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Vol. 8, no. 3

68--71

EN

The performances and properties of the fine hairs from the coats of several domestic and wild mammals, namely the "speciality animal fibres" used for manufacturing high quality, luxury textiles, are influenced by the domestication process, heritability, hybridisation, nutrition, and life environment. In this work, the fibre morphology and cell structures of fibres from wild, domestic and crossbred goats were studied, with the aim of investigating the relationships with the thermal behaviour of the crystalline fraction of the fibres. Scanning Electron Microscopy investigation confirmed that exposure to thermal excursions and nutritional stresses lead to finer hair, associated with lower rate of growth, yielding strong orientation and elongation of the cuticle cells in the direction of the fibre axis. Transmitted Light Microscopy and Differential Scanning Calorimetry revealed specie-specific differences in the internal structure of the fibre cortex, probably related also to moisture during the process of hair keratinisation.

2

Study of the enzyme treatments effect on the pilling behaviour of knitted wool fabrics

Mazzuchetti G., Vineis C.

Autex Research Journal

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2005

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Vol. 5, no. 1

55--60

EN

Two knitted wool fabrics with the same cover factor, yarn count and twist were used our experiment. The only variable introduced was the mean diameter of the wools, 19.2 μm and 25.6 μm. The aim of the work was to evaluate the effect of proteolytic enzyme treatment on the pilling behaviour of fabrics, and in particular on the yarn structure with different concentrations of proteolytic enzyme, and then the pilling behaviour was measured by using the pilling box test. The results obteined show that the proteolytic enzyme, within given levels of concentration, improves the pilling behaviour of the fabrics.

3

Studies on keratin/cellulose films from cuprammonium solution

Aluigi A., Innocenti R., Tonin C., Vineis C., Freddi G.

Autex Research Journal

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2004

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Vol. 4, no. 4

174--180

EN

This work deals with the preparation and characterisation of keratin/cellulose films prepared by coagulating polymers blends from cuprammonium solution. Films were obtained by blending keratin extracted from wool by m-bisulphite/urea solution and cellulose in several proportions. The molecular weight distributions of extracted and regenerated protein were studied by gel-electrophoresis (SDS-PAGE); the chemical structure and molecular conformation were investigated by FT-IR spectroscopy; the surface morphology of the films was observed by scanning electron microscopy (SEM).