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Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized controlled trial

Kozin Serhii, Cretu Marian, Kozina Zhanneta, Chernozub Andrii, Ryepko Olena, Shepelenko Tetiana, Sobko Iryna, Oleksiuk Mariia

Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics

2021

Vol. 23, no. 2

159--168

Purpose: The aim of this work to determine the influence of a program containing exercises in a closed kinematic chain, eccentric and strength exercises on injuries of students – rock climbers. Methods: Participants in this study were 84 male amateur climbing students, aged 18–19, 40 athletes were in the intervention group and 44 in the control group. In the intervention group, the program for the injuries prevention has been stalled. The program included exercises that are performed in a closed kinematic chain in combination with exercises that are performed in eccentric mode and strength exercises. We determined the Incidence rate ratio and confidence intervals. The Incidence rate ratio was determined by the by Fisher exact test. Results: The significant influence of the developed program on the reduction of injuries among the athletes of the intervention group was revealed. Injury rate per 1000 AEs recorded of all shoulder injuries in the control group was 3.182, in the intervention group was 0.5, P < 0.001. The incidence rate ratio for mild shoulder injuries was 0.861 (0.737; 1.007). The incidence rate ratio for moderate shoulder injuries was 0.862 (0.751; 0.990; P = 0.039). The incidence rate ratio for severe shoulder injuries was 0.864 (0.768; 0.971; P = 0.017). Conclusions: The use of exercises in a closed kinematic chain and exercises in an eccentric mode reduces the Incidence rate ratio of shoulders among students – amateur climbers. The incidence rate ratio decreases in the intervention group for mild, moderate, and severe shoulder injuries.

Comparative biomechanical characteristics of one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified athletes

Kozin Sergii, Safronov Danil, Kozina Zhanneta, Kniaz Hanna, Proskurnia Olexsii, Prontenko Kostiantyn, Lahno Olena, Goncharenko Volodymyr, Kholodniy Alexandr

Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics

2020

Vol. 22, no. 1

57--66

The aim of the study was to identify the basic kinematic characteristics of the one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified climbers. Material and methods: Technique of the one-arm hang in climbing among 20 leading climbers of the World and Ukraine and 20 beginner male amateur climbers was analyzed. A qualified athlete participated in the demonstration of various models of the one-arm hang performance. By means of Kinovea software 0.8.15, the kinematic characteristics of two models of the technique were analyzed (model 1 for beginner athletes, model 2 for qualified athletes). Results: The presence of significant differences ( p < 0.001) between beginners and qualified athletes in the magnitude of the angles between the shoulder and clavicle, between the spine and the vertical axis in the phase of fixation of the one-arm hang was revealed. The dynamics of the angle between the shoulder and clavicle from the moment of capture of the climbing hold to the phase of fixation of the hang was shown. A theoretical justification for the correct climbing technique regarding to the laws of mechanics and the laws of force interaction in kinematic chain was provided. Conclusions: Beginner athletes carry out the one-arm hang mainly due to the ligamentous apparatus of the joints of the shoulder girdle with minimal inclusion of muscles, which is dangerous by trauma to the ligaments of the shoulder joint. Skilled athletes perform the one-arm hang with trunk and leg muscles included, which reduces the strain from the ligamentous apparatus and lowers the possibility of injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint.