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Produkt kosmetyczny od koncepcji w laboratorium do produkcji przemysłowej

Nowak Izabela, Latanowicz Karolina, Bętlewski Adam, Feliczak-Guzik Agnieszka, Wawrzyńczak Agata

Wiadomości Chemiczne

2022

[Z] 76, 7-8

551--581

Growing interest in cosmetics of the highest quality generates new trends in the cosmetics industry and the need to design new products. Today's customer expects that the cosmetic will meet the requirements appropriate to his needs, and the marketing statement on the package will be supported by relevant research. Manufacturers of cosmetic raw materials are intensively working on innovative raw materials and their forms, which will not only facilitate the design of cosmetics, but also ensure the activity of the ingredient in the cosmetic formulation. Selection of appropriate raw materials is not easy and depends not only on the effectiveness, but also on the price and technological conditions that can be provided. The popularity of natural cosmetics brings a great challenge in the design of formulations and limits the manufacturer in the selection of raw materials. Thanks to the interest in products with the highest possible index of naturalness, a lot of substitutes for synthetic substances have been created, which often do not meet the expected effectiveness and application requirements. Marketing specialists in order to encourage the purchase of a product, take care of advertising, building brand awareness in social media, while the R&D department works on technological solutions in order to introduce unique and safe cosmetics. Introducing innovations and new products is an essential element for the brand to stay on the market.

Wytwarzanie oleożeli na bazie olejów naturalnych

Misiak Magdalena, Latanowicz Karolina, Feliczak-Guzik Agnieszka, Nowak Izabela

Przemysł Chemiczny

2021

T. 100, nr 7

675--679

Otrzymano oleożele w wyniku żelowania cieczy lipofilowych substancjami umożliwiającymi tworzenie struktury sieciowej. Przedstawiono sposób otrzymywania oleożeli na bazie olejów naturalnych, takich jak nierafinowany olej z pestek malin oraz nierafinowany olej z konopi siewnej, z wykorzystaniem koloidalnej krzemionki lub polimeru stanowiącego mieszaninę triacyloglicerolu kaprylowo-kaprynowego z poliuretanem-79 jako substancji żelującej.

Unrefined raspberry seed and hemp seed oils were homogenized (10,000 rpm) with the addn. of colloidal silica or a mixt. of caprylic-capric triacylglycerol with polyurethane-79 used in concns. of 3, 4.5, 6 or 7.5% by mass, optionally with the addn. of 10-60 μm solid particles (mica, TiO₂, Fe₂O₃). The process was carried out at the 80°C, in 2 variants, differing in the order of introducing the ingredients. The effective gel form was obtained for both oils obtained with the polymeric gelling agent or silica, used in amts. of 4.5 and 6 wt.%, resp. The solid particles were efficiently suspended in oleogels based on both silica and polymeric gelling agent. The viscosity of the gels obtained with the addn. of silica was significantly lower than that of the gels with the addn. of a polymeric agent. Oleogels based on hemp oil showed higher viscosity values.