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Note on estimating bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves

Myrhaug Dag, Ong Muk Chen

Oceanologia

2021

No. 63 (3)

385--390

This note presents a method of how the bed shear stress caused by breaking random waves on slopes can be estimated. This is obtained by adopting the Sumer et al. (2013) bed shear stress formula due to spilling and plunging breaking waves on hydraulically smooth slopes combined with the Myrhaug and Fouques (2012) joint distribution of surf similarity parameter and wave height for individual random waves in deep water. The conditional mean value of the maxima of mean bed shear stress during wave runup given wave height in deep water is provided including an example for spilling and plunging breaking random waves corresponding to typical field conditions. Another example compares the present results with one case from Thornton and Guza (1983) estimating the wave energy dissipation caused by bed shear stress beneath breaking random waves.