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EN
A comparative analysis of traditional western Ukrainian and Lithuanian towels provides rich material for new creative inspirations, as well as diversification of individual and mass-produced interior textiles, and also visualizes historical ties between the two countries. Therefore, the objective of the article is to analyse the weaving techniques that prevail in the creation of towel decor, to determine the artistic and stylistic parameters of Ukrainian and Lithuanian towels and to establish the common and unique features of their decor. The techniques of plain and twill weaving, the latter of which could obtain simple textured patterns on the canvas, were widespread in both countries. Various weaving compositions were obtained by the pick-up techniques of weaving, the overshot, and the damask weaving technique, which was much more widespread in Lithuania than in the western part of Ukraine.
EN
As one of the representative silk-woven artworks of the 20th century in China, Chinese Xiangjin brocade, well-known as "the flower of Oriental art", draws on the essence of Sichuan brocade, Yun brocade, Song brocade, so as to form its own unique artistic style. It also takes the lead in the innovation of traditional brocade in key processes such as craftsmanship, design and jacquard, whose drawing technique is the exact core skill making it intangible cultural heritage. So far, there have been few studies on crafts and textile design in China before the 20th century or even after the reform and opening up, and rather fewer studies on the structure of Xiangjin brocade in the 20th century. This paper attempts to record and classify 1008 pieces of Xiangjin brocade in the Suzhou Silk Archive, China, as well as to find out their design features, oriental flavour, and unique weaving techniques. In addition, the cultural connotation of Xiangjin brocade as the painting medium was also put forward by analysing those brocades’ historical texts, images, and style.
EN
Lithuania has deep traditions in hand-loom weaving. This paper deals with the evaluation and systematisation of North and East Lithuanian hand woven overshot fabrics. This textile heritage has not yet been investigated thoroughly. Investigations of authentic woven fabrics, their patterns, colours as well as weaving technologies are presented with special regard for textile identification, technological analysis and experience of masters. The importance lies in the fact that not only original articles are still extant for Lithuanian rural masters or with their families but the existence of these original works up to now has been undisclosed. In this study textile materials from the last 150 years were investigated. All the data for this research was collected directly from the textile masters during numerous expeditions by the authors in 2013, and in this study we present woven fabrics and weaving traditions as a significant expression of the ethno-cultural identity of an individual and the region.
PL
Na Litwie istnieją długie tradycje tkania na krosnach ręcznych. Materiał ten nie był dotychczas starannie badany. Analizowano tkaniny pod względem stosowanych wzorów, kolorystyki, jak również technologii tkackich. Badano tkaniny wyprodukowane w ostatnich 150-ciu latach. Brano pod uwagę tkaniny zbadane na podstawie ankiet przeprowadzonych w terenie. Zwrócono uwagę na zależność wzorów od technologii tkania oraz na występowanie podobnego wzornictwa w krajach sąsiednich a nawet znacznie oddalonych od Litwy.
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