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EN
In order to explore the traditional and superb craftsmanship as well as unique characteristics of artistic expression in ancient China, in this paper Zhuanghua silk fabric was selected as the research object, and the research methods of expert interview, cultural relic investigation, field investigation and others were adopted. The craft, pattern, colour and other artistic characteristics of Zhuanghua silk fabric were analysed and studied. First of all, the historical background and classification of Zhuanghua silk fabric are introduced, focusing on a comparison with other processes such as Chinese Silk Tapestry, Secondly, taking Zhuanghua Satin as an example, the technological process of Zhuanghua Satin is analysed in detail. Based on this, the artistic characteristics of Zhuanghua silk fabric are analysed from a micro perspective. The problem of vagueness with regard to the skills and artistic features of traditional Zhuanghua silk fabric was solved in the study, and an important reference for modern innovative practice is put forward so as to inherit and carry forward the technique of Zhuanghua silk fabric.
PL
W celu zbadania tradycyjnego rzemiosła, a także unikalnych cech ekspresji artystycznej w starożytnych Chinach, autorzy poddali analizie jedwabną tkaninę Zhuanghua. Przeanalizowano rzemiosło, wzór, kolor i inne cechy artystyczne jedwabnej tkaniny Zhuanghua. Przedstawiono tło historyczne i klasyfikację jedwabnej tkaniny Zhuanghua, skupiając się na porównaniu z innymi procesami oraz szczegółowo przeanalizowano proces technologiczny.
2
Content available remote Behaviour of yarn interacted with high-speed object under sideways-constraint
EN
This paper presents an investigation of the dynamic behaviour of a yarn in an interaction with a high-speed object, for the lower warp sheet during the weaving process. The yarn movement on the object can be described in four stages from non-contact, contact, drop-off and withdrawal. A model is developed to predict this interaction, taking into account several factors such as yarn length, yarn tension, object speed, object orientation and object profile. A comparison of theoretical predictions and experimental measurements for different yarns indicates a good agreement. The theoretical model can be used to optimise the object profile in order to reduce the interactive yarn tension and to avoid any yarn damage.
3
Content available remote Software for calculation of weaving process parameters
EN
The developed program of the warp thread tension calculation by shedding and the cloth fell displacements is recommended forapplication in the weaving enterprises.
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