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From history of development textiles of the kyiv region

Andriiashko Vasyl

Zeszyty Naukowe Wyższej Szkoły Technicznej w Katowicach

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2022

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T. 15

177--188

EN

On the basis of the literary sources available to the author of the article, the main milestones of the development of artistic textiles of the Kyiv region are considered. Textiles on the territory of modern Ukraine existed in all historical periods, starting with the Trypil culture, as evidenced by the impressions on the bottoms of ceramic dishes found during archaeological excavations. Antiquities researchers assume that weaving existed in the Bronze Age as well. During the times of Kyivan Rus, in addition to simple linen weaving, there was a patterned weaving and a bump on the fabric, where the pattern was applied with the help of paint and stamps cut out of wood. This is evidenced by artifacts and spinning tools found by archaeologists. Textiles acquired development even after the Tatar-Mongol oppression in the times when the Kyiv lands were under the rule of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Later, in the 17th and 18th centuries. silk manufactories were developed in Kyiv itself, where, in addition to breeding cocoons, silk fabrics were made. At that time, there were also weaving workshops at monasteries, one of which was located in the Kyiv-Pechersk Lavra. In the mid-19th to the first half of the 20th centuries, textiles became widely developed in the Kyiv region. In addition to the home weaving of artisans, local craft workshops began to supply textile goods to the market. The assortment of products included fabrics for upholstering men’s furniture, handkerchiefs, sheets, and blankets. In 1906, the Kyiv Artisan Society was created to intensify the development of textile and other industries.Textiles gained further development after the establishment of Soviet power in Ukraine. In the 1930s, weaving centers worked in Bohuslav, Pereyaslav, and Tarascha. In the post-war period, textile mills came into operation in Kyiv – the Darnytsky Silk Mill, which produced fabrics from synthetic fibers, and the Kyiv Silk Mill, which produced natural silk fabrics.

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Detection of Remote Sensing Warp Tension during Weaving on Plain Twill and Satin Fabrics

Kaplan Volkan

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2021

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Vol. 29, no. 1 (145)

35--39

EN

Warp tensions were measured while a machine was operating on a woven cotton fabric with three different woven patterns. This study was carried out with image analysis methods using a high speed camera. Three weave pattern types: plain, twill and satin were woven on the same weaving machine, and thus it could be understood how weave pattern differences affect warp tension. Each of these three weaves was woven in three weft densities: 20, 28 and 45 wefts per cm. These fabrics were able to be made on a weaving machine with an automatic dobby. It was aimed to investigate warp tension differences for three basic weave patterns while keeping all machine settings constant. The weave settings of the dobby were changed for plain, twill and satin weaves. Warp tension calculation was based on the warp elasticity theory. Warp elasticises were measured by image processing methods in MATLAB using a high-speed camera. It was aimed to improve upon the new method of warp extension measurement of fabric when the loom is in operation. It was observed that the warp tension in plain fabric was higher than for twill and satin under the same conditions.

PL

W pracy mierzono naprężenia osnowy podczas wytwarzania tkanin bawełnianych o trzech różnych wzorach. Badanie zostało przeprowadzone metodami analizy obrazu przy użyciu kamery. Na tej samej maszynie tkano trzy rodzaje wzorów splotu: gładki, diagonalny i satynowy, dzięki czemu zbadano wpływ rodzaju splotu na napięcie osnowy. Każdy z tych trzech splotów został utkany w trzech gęstościach wątku: 20, 28 i 45 wątków/cm. Celem pracy było zbadanie różnic naprężeń osnowy dla trzech podstawowych wzorów splotów, przy jednoczesnym zachowaniu stałych ustawień maszyny. Obliczenia naprężenia osnowy oparto na teorii sprężystości osnowy. Elastyczność osnowy mierzono metodami przetwarzania obrazu w programie MATLAB przy użyciu kamery. Celem badania było ulepszenie nowej metody pomiaru wydłużenia osnowy tkaniny podczas pracy krosna. Zaobserwowano, że naprężenie osnowy w tkaninie gładkiej było wyższe niż w przypadku diagonalu i satyny w tych samych warunkach.

3

The Pole who invented a new method of weaving, bullet-resistant vest and....TV

Tadeusiewicz Ryszard

Polish Technical Review

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2020

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No. 4

34--38

EN

Jan Szczepanik, Polish inventor was called, inter alia, “Polish Edison”, and “Austrian Edison”. At the breakdown of the 19th century, Mark Twain described his activity in two papers. Jan Szczepanik was the author of at least 50 inventions and several hundred technical patents in the field of coloured photography, weaving or television.

PL

Jan Szczepanik - polski wynalazca, nazywany m. in. „polskim Edisonem”, „austriackim Edisonem”. Na przełomie XIX i XX w. Mark Twain opisał jego działalność w dwóch artykułach. Jan Szczepanik był autorem co najmniej 50 wynalazków i kilkuset opatentowanych pomysłów technicznych z dziedziny fotografii barwnej, tkactwa czy telewizji.

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Synergistic Effects of Plasma Treatment and Fabric Structure on Stab-Resistance Performances of STF/Aramid Composite Fabrics

Zhang Xiayun, Li Ting-Ting, Wang Yunlong, Li Mengxuan, Lin Jia-Horng

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2020

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Vol. 28, no. 2 (140)

67--75

EN

In order to improve the contribution of STF and fabric to the stab resistance of STF-impregnated aramid soft armour materials, the plasma treatment of various fabric structures was conducted. This study explored the interactive effects of plasma treatment, fabric structure and particle size on the spike and knife resistance properties of plasma-treated STF/Aramid fabrics. Fumed silica and polyethylene glycol (PEG) based STFs were prepared with various particle sizes (15 nm, 75 nm) at a solid content of 15%. Various weave structures of fabrics (plain, 2/2 twill, 5/3 satin, 2/2 basket) were impregnated with STF and then plasma-treatment conducted. The rheological behaviour of STF in various silica sizes as well as the spike and knife quasi-static stab resistances of the resultant plasma-treated STF/aramid fabrics in various weave structures were both explored. The results show that the various weave structures of STF/Aramid fabrics treated with plasma exhibited a significant enhancement of quasi-static spike resistance. Furthermor, 2/2 twill, 5/3 satin and basket weaving plasma-treated STF/Aramid with a coarser silica particle in STF showed a higher improvement in quasi-static spike resistance. Interactive effect results show that the plasma treatment of fabric and the silica size in STF affected spike resistance more significantly, while knife resistance was only significantly affected by the fabric structure.

PL

Aby poprawić odporność na przebicie tkaniny kompozytowych STF/aramid przeprowadzono ich obróbkę plazmową. Zbadano interaktywny wpływ obróbki plazmowej, struktury tkaniny i wielkości cząstek na właściwości odporności na przebicie kolcami i nożem tkanin kompozytowych STF/aramid poddanych działaniu plazmy. Przygotowano STF na bazie zmatowionej krzemionki koloidalnej i glikolu polietylenowego (PEG) o różnych wielkościach cząstek (15 i 75 nm) o zawartości substancji stałych wynoszącej 15%. Różne struktury splotu tkanin (m.in. gładkie, 2/2 diagonalne i 5/3 satynowe) zostały zaimpregnowane STF, a następnie przeprowadzono obróbkę plazmą. Badano zarówno zachowanie reologiczne w przypadku różnych rozmiarów krzemionki, jak i quasi-statyczne odporności na przebicie kolcami i nożem otrzymanych tkanin STF/aramid poddanych obróbce plazmowej i wykonanych z zastosowaniem różnych struktur splotu. Wyniki pokazały, że różne struktury splotu tkanin STF aramid poddanych obróbce plazmą wykazały znaczne zwiększenie quasi-statycznej odporności na przebicie kolcami. Ponadto tkany z grubszą cząstką krzemionki w STF wykazały poprawę w quasi-statycznej odporności na przebicie kolcami. Wyniki pokazały, że obróbka plazmowa tkaniny i rozmiar krzemionki w STF wpłynęły bardziej na odporność na przebicie kolcami, podczas gdy na wytrzymałość na przebicie nożem istotny wpływ miała tylko struktura tkaniny.

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Study of the Contact Resistance of Interlaced Stainless Steel Yarns Embedded in Hybrid Woven Fabrics

Vasile S., Deruck F., Hertleer C., De Raeve A., Ellegiers T., De Mey G.

Autex Research Journal

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2017

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Vol. 17, no. 2

170--176

EN

The contact resistance of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns embedded in a hybrid woven fabric will constitute a problem for electro-conductive textiles under certain circumstances. A high contact resistance can induce hotspots, while a variable contact resistance may cause malfunctioning of the components that are interconnected by the electro-conductive yarns. Moreover, the contact robustness should be preserved over time and various treatments such as washing or abrading should not alter the functioning of the electro-conductive textiles. The electrical resistance developed in the contact point of two interlacing electro-conductive yarns is the result of various factors. The influence of diameter of the electro-conductive stainless steel yarns, the weave pattern, the weft density, and the abrasion on the contact resistance was investigated. Hybrid polyester fabrics were produced according to the design of experiments (DoE) and statistical models were found that describe the variation of the contact resistance with the selected input parameters. It was concluded that the diameter of the stainless steel warp and weft yarns has a statistically significant influence on the contact resistance regardless of the weave. Weft density had a significant influence on the contact resistance but only in case of the twill fabrics. Abrasion led to an increase in contact resistance regardless of the weave pattern and the type of stainless steel yarn that was used. Finally, a combination of parameters that leads to plain and twill fabrics with low contact resistance and robust contacts is recommended.

6

Detection of Warp Elongation in Satin Woven Cotton Fabrics Using Image Processing

Kaplan V., Varan N. Y., Dayik M., Turhan Y., Durur G.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2016

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Vol. 24, no. 4 (118)

59--62

EN

In this study, warp elongations in a satin fabric were detected using image processing to reduce yarn breakage during weaving. It was aimed to increase the productivity of the weaving looms. In this work, a high sensitive camera was used for the analyses. The warp elongation was analysed and determined statistically using MATLAB software. The warp elongations in satin woven fabric samples were examined and detected on a working loom using a high sensitivity camera. Additionally the strains for each warp yarn were measured and recorded. Different elongations for warp ends were observed, attributed to the differences in mechanism settings. The difference in the elongation of the warp yarns causes warp yarn breakages, which decrease productivity during weaving. This warp breaking ratio could be reduced by making necessary adjustments to the shedding mechanism on the loom.

PL

Analiza została wykonana w celu możliwości zredukowania zrywów włókien podczas przędzenia, a tym samym w celu zwiększenia produktywności krosien. Zastosowano wysokoczułą kamerę do analizy obrazów. Wydłużenia włókien osnowy mierzono i analizowano statystycznie stosując program MATLAB. Zaobserwowano i zarejestrowano różne wydłużenia w zależności od parametrów ustawienia krosna. Ilość zrywów można było zredukować poprzez odpowiednie ustawienie mechanizmu sterowania przesmyku.

7

Investigation about the Manufacturing Technique of the Composite Corner Fitting Part

Wang P., Legrand X., Soulat D.

Autex Research Journal

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2014

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Vol. 14, no. 2

111--120

EN

Textile composite reinforcement forming has been employed in many aeronautic industries as a traditional composite manufacturing process. The double-curved shape manufacturing may be difficult and can lead to defects when the composite parts have high curvatures and large deformations. Compared with the textile composites forming, surface 3D weaving can demonstrate directly the geometry of final composite part without the stages involved in 2D product. The weaving in three directions is completely designed and warp and weft yarns are always perpendicular to the surfaces of the final 3D ply. These two manufacturing techniques are applied to produce an important piece of aircraft: the corner fitting. The 3D weaving results are compared with the experimental forming by a punch as same geometry as the corner fitting part. The conveniences and limits of each technique are investigated. The comparisons show particularly a perfect final 3D fabric with homogeneous fibre volume fraction performed by the surface 3D weaving technique.

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Tekstylia pochodzące z grobu nr 17, odkrytego w dawnej kolegiacie w Jarosławiu (woj. podkarpackie)

Antosik Ł., Rychter M.R.

Wiadomości Konserwatorskie

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2013

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Nr 33

58--62

PL

W czasie badań archeologicznych natrafia się na różnorodne znaleziska. Jedną z kategorii odkryć są pochówki. Cały ich szereg wyeksplorowano podczas wykopalisk przy kolegiacie w Jarosławiu. Na szczególną uwagę zasługuje grób, w którym złożono zmarłego w trumnie wykonanej z sosnowych desek, dodatkowo ozdobionej posrebrzanymi guzami układającymi się w motyw serca z trzema strzałami. W artykule opisano sposób konserwacji poszczególnych grup surowcowych znalezisk oraz dokonano analizy tkanin z okresu pochówku.

EN

In the course of archaeological research diverse relics can be discovered. One category of finds are burials, several of which were explored during archaeological excavations carried out near the collegiate church in Jarosław. One of them, laid in a coffin made of pinewood planks, additionally decorated with silver-plated nails forming a motif of a heart pierced by three arrows, deserves particular attention. The article describes conservation procedures applied to individual groups of raw materials from the finds, and the analysis of weaving techniques characteristic for that period.

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Szczepność nitek jako parametr towarzyszący technologicznym oporom tkania

Kuchar M., Michalak A.

Przegląd Włókienniczy - Włókno, Odzież, Skóra

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2012

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nr 7

19-22

EN

Cling of threads has been identified as a measurable component of it was revealed dependence on the speed of its value rise. The nature of cling forces between weft and warp threads were determined in the oscillating relative motion. A dynamical system was identified by means phase characteristics of this force as a function of displacement and velocity in which the weft movement is accompanied by a pure elastic plastic deformation of the warp threads.

10

Bidłowy mechanizm akumulacyjny krosna

Słodowy J.

Problemy Eksploatacji

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2007

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nr 3

195-205

PL

Analiza działania bidła krosna tkackiego ujawnia jego wady. Przedstawiono nowe rozwiązanie napędu bidła. Wykazano analitycznie i doświadczalnie, w oparciu o zbudowany model fizyczny, korzystniejsze warunki pracy rezonansowego bidła akumulacyjnego wobec dotychczas stosowanego. Opracowano wskaźniki skuteczności dobicia dowodzące jej trzykrotnej poprawy w rozwiązaniu nowym.

EN

The analysis of the loom slay action reveals its defects. The new solutions of slay driver were presented. Better work conditions of resonant accumulatic slay were proved, both analytically and experimentally, on the base of a physical model in comparison with the one used so far. The efficiency indicators of beaten show its treble improve in a new solution.

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Comparison of Heald Frame Motion Generated by Rotary Dobby and Crank & Cam Shedding Motions

Eren R., Özkan G., Karahan M.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2005

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Vol. 13, no. 4 (52)

78--83

EN

Mechanism models are introduced for rotary dobby, crank & cam shedding motions. Equations governing heald frame motion are derived. Heald frame motion curves are obtained and compared with each other. It is shown that higher heald frame maximum velocity & maximum acceleration, as well as a longer approximate heald frame dwell, are generated by the rotary dobby rather than the crank or cam shedding motions, due to the intermittent nature of the rotary dobby shaft’s motion.

PL

Opracowano modele mechanizmu napędu nicielnic, napędzanych przez mechanizm rotacyjny, korbowy i krzywkowy. Uzyskano wykresy ruchu nicielnic w funkcji czasu i porównano je między sobą. Wykazano, że większe maksimum prędkości i przyspieszenia nicielnic, jak również dłuższe przerwy sterowania nicielnic, występują raczej przy rotacyjnym ruchu nicielnic, niż przy korbowym lub krzywkowym napędzie. Wynika to głównie z przerywanego ruchu wału mechanizmu nicielnicowego.

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Numerical modelling the air flow in parts of air jet loom

Adámek K.

Computer Assisted Mechanics and Engineering Sciences

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1999

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Vol. 6, No. 3-4

251-261

EN

Paper summarizes the first results of two-dimensional (2D) numerically modelled expansion and flow of compressible and non-viscous gas in typical parts of air jet weaving system ; namely in main nozzle designed as an ejector with various shapes of the mixing zone, in relay (auxiliary) nozzle with substantial flow separation in the rash flow bend directly before the nozzle outlet, and the influence of the reed dent edges shape on the free stream reflection and penetration through reed gaps along a real 'porous' wall. The used Euler's equations are solved by a Finite Volumes Method (FVM) with automatic mesh generation and optimization of unstructured triangle mesh. Graphical results show 2D isolinies of all gas state values, further Mach number, entropy and velocity vectors. 1D profiles of all quantities along chosen cross-section or surfaces can be obtained, too. They give to the designer a large and quick review about the problem. The condicience with experiment, measuring and weaving tests is very good. The advantage of numerical modelling consists in the very quick, simple and user-friendly operation.