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Bed forms under the combined action of waves and wind-driven currents in the remote foreshore of the non-tidal sea

Stella-Bogusz Magdalena

Oceanologia

2023

Vol. 65 (3)

484--493

The paper presents a prediction of bed form parameters (length and height) in the remote foreshore of the non-tidal sea. The study site is located in the south Baltic region, near the Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo, Poland (ca. 1–2 Nm off the shoreline at depths of around 16–20 m). The study site is an area with hydrodynamics and lithodynamics typical of the south Baltic coast, built of fine sands. Predictions are based on numerical modelling with an input of measured data. Numerical modelling uses assumptions of specific relations of sand wave height and length with shear stress, grain size, kinematic viscosity, or storm event frequency. To establish these relations for the study area, wave, sea temperature and wind data were collected near CRS Lubiatowo. To verify the predictions made in this research, bathymetric data from a field survey in the study area was used. The results show that the flow is mostly current-dominated. Sand waves formed by hydrodynamic conditions in this area have a steepness of 0.01 to 0.02, a length of 40 to 70 m and a height of 0.6 to 2.3 m.

Modelling longshore sediment transport under asymmetric waves

Ostrowski R., Szmytkiewicz M.

Oceanologia

2006

No. 48 (3)

395-412

Two wave theories are applied in calculations of longshore sediment transport rates: the second Stokes approximation and the cnoidal theory. These approaches are used to model sand motion in nearshore locations beyond and within the surf zone. Wave-current interaction in the nearbed layer and bed shear stresses are solved using a momentum integral method, whereas sediment transport is described by a three-layer model encompassing bedload, contact load and suspended load. Computational results for asymmetric waves are compared with the results obtained using linear wave theory and the conventional sediment transport models of Bailard (1981), Bijker (1971) and Van Rijn (1993).