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1 2009

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Fancy yarns - an appraisal

Grabowska K E, Ciesielska I. L., Vasile S.

Autex Research Journal

2009

Vol. 9, no. 3

74--81

The great interest in fancy yarns area was noticed at the textile market all over the world as well as in science area. That interest may be the consequence of liberalization in trade with countries like China. Due to liberalization in fancy yarns sector trade between Europe and Asia, the main Asian producers of fancy yarns compete with each other to offer more and more sophisticated products. The production of fancy yarns has been differentiated and enriched in such scale that makes almost impossible to catalog and standardized all the produced types. However, certain activities has been taken up at The Technical University of Lodz with cooperation of the University of Gent to investigate the area from scientific point of view, mainly by tests based on fancy cotton yarns e.g. spiral, loop and bunch as well as fancy elastic yarns e.g. spiral, bunch and flame yarns. The aspects of fancy yarns implementation into fabrics will be considered as well as positioning those scientific activities at the European level with connection to the global policy. Therefore, the aim of this paper is bringing closer the matters concerning fancy cotton yarns and fancy elastic yarns from scientific point of view on a base of chosen examples carrying out a comparison of physical properties of those fancy yarns, the introduction of those yarns as wefts into fabrics. The aesthetic aspects and behaviour at wear of final products will be considered. The first experiment concerns the production, on the ring twisting frame, of three types of fancy cotton yarns, spiral, loop and bunch which were differentiated in respect of twist, linear density, the angel of lap of pegs by yarn on the slat of ring-twisting frame (the input only for spiral yarns) and the frequency of rocker's action in ring-twisting frame (the input only for bunch yarns). All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec), bending rigidity (cN*cm) and width of hysteresis from bending rigidity test (cN*cm/cm). The fancy cotton fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface (g/m2), friction-mass loss (g), piling, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), tearing (N), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking. The second experiment concerns the production, on the hollow spindle, of three types of fancy elastic yarns, loop, bunch and flame yarns which were differentiated in respect of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), the value of stretch given to the elastic component (%) and preparation of the bobbin - precise and normal. All obtained yarns were analysed in respect of real value of twist (t/m), linear density (tex), breaking force (cN/tex), elongation during breaking (%), air index (m/sec). The fancy elastic fabrics were analysed in respect of mass surface, flexural rigidity (mg*cm), creasing, breaking force (cN/cm) and elongation while breaking (%) and dimensional stability. All the statistical analyses were carried out with usage of multiple regression module.