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PL
Trudno wyobrazić sobie świat bez tekstyliów. Od ubrań, które nosimy, po pościel, w której się budzimy – prawie cały czas mamy kontakt z tkaninami. Sektor tekstylny, który obejmuje przemysł modowy, charakteryzuje się niskim stopniem wykorzystania i niskim poziomem recyklingu, co prowadzi do znacznej i stale rosnącej presji na oszczędzanie zasobów.
EN
This article presents the results of research carried out based on consumer assessment of the quality of clothing using sensory analysis. The study aimed to determine the role of the brand and information about it in assessing product quality and identify the quality parameters that distinguish brands of a similar quality level. An attempt was also made to classify popular brands of clothing available on the Polish market based on the parameters that determine their quality. A significant impact of the brand name on the sensory assessment of clothes’ quality has been reported. The study has shown that assessors attribute higher rating values to quality features when they know the product brand; moreover, the brand and its information shortens the assessment time, which may suggest that it simplifies and facilitates consumers’ decision-making process. The result analysis has led to the identification of three groups of the factors determining the quality of clothing products: fabric composition, workmanship, and all other variables. It has also led to the separation of three clusters, characterized by different levels of product quality, for which sets of features distinguishing a given category were determined.
3
Content available remote Improvment of Clothes Fit for Different Female Bodies
EN
The factors influencing for fit and suit of women’s clothing have been studied. The main reason of misfit is the nonconformity between the front and back width of pattern block, the corresponding body sizes taken across the hipline, and the textile materials properties. To predict the behavior of textile fabrics in real clothes including the shear deformation and wrinkles appearing, the special test and device have been designed. The developed method of pattern block making includes the test of clothes proportionality based on the female bodies sizes, pattern block indexes, and textile fabrics properties. Features of “figure-clothes” systems in-cluding the vertical designing lines, styles, volume of clothes, ease allowance and its distribution between the back, armhole, and front of the pattern blocks were taken into consideration. Recommendations in terms of selecting the proper design of style for different sizes of female bodies have been made.
5
Content available remote Simulation of a rapid nip pressure strike and its effect on press felt samples
EN
Special technical textiles are used in papermaking to support, transfer, and dewater the paper web. These textiles, paper machine cloths, have many essential functions connected to their position on the paper or board machine. Mechanical wet pressing uses press felts, whose porosity and resiliency are important for effective dewatering. Water is squeezed out by two overlapping paper machine rolls, which form a nip. After squeezing, the porous felt should be void and return to its original thickness to ensure efficient dewatering. Friction forces are also present at the nip, since abrasive interfaces occur between the cloths and the rolls by pressure, heat, and movement. Thus in time, the harsh papermaking process wears out the press felt, deteriorating its quality. At high machine speed, defects in press felts, rolls, or other parts of the nip environment can cause runnability problems such as noisy run, that is, vibration in the pressing section, decreasing paper quality and output capacity. This study sought for a new way to simulate the ambiguous nip phenomenon on laboratory scale and to find out a way to predict this noisy run problem. A dynamic test method, the Hopkinson Split Bar, was used to define the ease with which strike energy passed through from the upper roll to the lower roll and the damping of strikes by new and worn felt samples. In our study, the elasticity of the press felt was strongly linked with the ageing time. Decreased elasticity lets a nip impulse more easily through the press felt.
6
Content available Ochrony osobiste – rodzaje i metody badań
PL
W artykule wymieniono podstawowe wymagania i badania jakim podlegają środki ochron osobistych stosowanych w ochronie przeciwpożarowej.
EN
This article contains basic requirements and list of tests carried out on personal protective equipment used in fire protection.
EN
The purpose of this study was to compare the effects of 2 kinds of underwear made from hydrophobic and hydrophilic fabrics on the mean skin temperatures and clothing microclimate (temperature, humidity) in participants performing intermittent exercise in cold environmental conditions. One or 2 layers of cotton underwear (C1, C2) with a 2-piece long-sleeved shirt and long-legged trousers, and 1 or 2 layers of polypropylene underwear (P1, P2) with a 2-piece long-sleeved shirt and long-legged trousers were used as experimental underwear. In addition, the participants wore a 2-piece ski suit as 100% polyester clothing including 100% polyester padding. Ten young adult females volunteered as participants. The experiments were performed in a climatic chamber at an ambient temperature (Ta) of 0°C and an air velocity of 0.26 m s-1. The major findings are summarized as follows: (a) Although the clothing microclimate humidity was not different within the ski suit of outer clothing between C1 and P1, it was significantly higher in P2 than in C2; (b) Clothing microclimate temperature inside the ski suit did not differ between C1 and P1, whereas it was significantly higher in P2 than in C2; (c) The thermal gradient between innermost and outermost of clothing microclimate at back level did not show any difference between C1 and P1, but it was significantly higher in C2 than in P2. These results are discussed in terms of thermal physiology and clothing sciences.
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