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Motifs and Symmetry Characteristics of the Ornamentation on Traditional Greek Woven Textiles from the Area of the Aegean

Lekka L., Dascalopoulos S.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2008

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Vol. 16, no. 3 (68)

74--78

EN

This paper presents an analysis of woven ornamentation of traditional Greek textiles from the area of the Aegean. The aim of this research is to explore the relationship between woven ornamentation and the technology used for its construction. Ornament forming on woven structures is specific because of the influence and restrictions that weave technology imposes on the aesthetic result of the artifacts produced. In this study, a group of traditional hand–woven fabrics from the Aegean area was digitally recorded. The decoration and motifs of these textiles /were analysed using the international classification and notation system created by H. J. Woods and M. A. Hann, taking into account the limitations that exist in the case of woven ornaments. This methodology enables the classification of woven ornaments into categories, making possible the comparison of ornament ‘types’ with the weave techniques used. Results of the symmetry analysis of these textiles are presented in this paper and lead to some conclusions that show that technology plays a determinant role in the appearance of woven ornaments.

PL

W pracy zaprezentowano analizę zdobnictwa tradycyjnych greckich tekstyliów z obszaru wybrzeża Morza Egejskiego. Celem badań było znalezienie związku pomiędzy zdobieniami a techniką użytą do ich wykonania. Tworzenie zdobień na strukturze tkaniny jest specyficznym procesem, ponieważ technologia tkania narzuca pewne ograniczenia, czym wpływa na ostateczną estetykę wyrobu. W pracy zapisano cyfrowo grupę ręcznie tkanych tradycyjnych tkanin z obszaru wybrzeża Morza Egejskiego. Analizowano zdobienia i motywy tych tekstyliów używając klasyfikacji i systemu zapisu stworzonego przez H.J. Woods’a i M.A. Hann’a, a także biorąc pod uwagę ograniczenia istniejące w kwestii zdobień tkanin. Taka metodologia umożliwia podział zdobień na kategorie, czyniąc możliwym porównanie typów zdobień z użytą do ich wytworzenia techniką. W artykule zaprezentowano wyniki analizy symetrii tekstyliów, które pokazują, że technika wytwarzania odgrywa zasadniczą rolę w wyglądzie zdobień.

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Dynamic cloth fell movement. Part II: New measuring device

Azzam H. A., Büsgen A.

Autex Research Journal

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2006

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Vol. 6, no. 1

23--29

EN

Textile Technology Department, University of Applied Science, Mönchengladbach, Germany A new flexible cloth fell movement measuring device, hereafter referred to as the 'needle-mechanical device', has been developed to facilitate the use, for the first time, of a measuring position just 2 millimetres from the cloth fell. In addition, the experimental set-up was built in a combination between the needle-mechanical device and the Weave Master to record the dynamic cloth fell's movement cycles on-loom. The results of these measurements were analysed and discussed in the light of the theory developed in part I.

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Dynamic cloth fell movement. Part I: Critical review

Azzam H. A., Büsgen A.

Autex Research Journal

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2006

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Vol. 6, no. 1

14--22

EN

Extensive coverage of previous work in the area of cloth fell movement, the circumstances of its beginning, and its influences are reviewed. The review also includes previous work describing factors that affect cloth fell movement. The advantages and disadvantages of the methods used hitherto are underlined and the need of a satisfactory measuring method is emphasised.