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Some probabilistic properties of surf parameter

Myrhaug Dag

Oceanologia

2020

No. 62 (3)

395--401

This article is supplementary to Myrhaug (2018) and presents some probabilistic properties of the surf parameter for individual waves and the spectral surf parameter for sea states by using distributions based on data from the Norwegian continental shelf. The average statistical features given by the mean value and the standard deviation of the two surf parameters are considered. Examples of results for the surf parameter are provided for a Phillips spectrum and a family of JONSWAP spectra for wind sea, and for sea states using a joint frequency table of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period for combined wind sea and swell. The spectral surf parameter results are obtained by using a joint distribution of significant wave height and spectral surf parameter, and the mean statistical properties are given for joint frequency tables of significant wave height and mean zero-crossing wave period from three deep water locations on the Norwegian continental shelf. It is also demonstrated how the results can be applied to calculate the vertical wave runup elevation for breaking waves.