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Comparative Study of Needle Penetration Forces in Sewing Hems on Toweling Terry Fabrics: Influence of Needle Type and Size

Carvalho Manuel, Rocha Ana Maria, Carvalho Helder

Autex Research Journal

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2020

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Vol. 20, no. 2

194--202

EN

In this paper, an industrial case study comparing the use of different needles in the production of hems in towels is presented. The study aims to assess the sewability of the fabrics, quantified by needle penetration forces. The market offers an interesting range of options for the needle, regarding the geometry of the needle point, surface finishing, and sizes. However, in practice, the choice is difficult, namely due to the lack of quantitative data that may support the empirical evaluation made by the sewing technicians. The work aims to assess how the needle type and size relate to the resulting needle penetration forces. Three terry fabric structures, produced by a home textiles manufacturer, were tested using needles of different sizes, points, and coatings. Needle penetration forces were measured on a sewability tester prototype, previously designed and developed, based on an instrumented overedge sewing machine. It was found that needle penetration forces present very significant differences with small size increments, needle coating also influences forces significantly, and different needle points produce only slight differences, significant only on some of the fabrics that were tested.

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Sewability (Based on Needle Penetration Force) of 1 × 1 Rib Knitted Fabrics Produced with Separate Ends of Yarns

Ala Deniz Mutlu, Bakıcı Gamze Gülşen

Autex Research Journal

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2019

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Vol. 19, no. 4

340--346

EN

Needle penetration force (NPF) is one of the main factors, which is used to determine fabric sewability. In this study, it was aimed to investigate sewability (based on NPF) of 1 × 1 rib knitted fabrics, which were produced by the separate ends of yarns. 18 types of fabrics were knitted with Ne 30/1 yarns with variations of stitch density and number of separate ends, whereas the other parameters were constant. Sewability tests were applied to fabrics after pretreatment and relaxation procedures by using the L&M sewability tester. As a result, it was seen that the number of separate ends and the stitch density have influence on the needle penetration values of 1 × 1 rib knitted fabrics.

3

The Effects of Elastane Yarn Type and Fabric Density on Sewing Needle Penetration Forces and Seam Damage of PET/Elastane Woven Fabrics

Gurarda A., Meric B.

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

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2007

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Vol. 15, no. 4 (63)

73--76

EN

This paper presents the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric density on the seam performance of PET/ elastane woven fabrics. In this study, 12 different weft stretched fabrics were woven with 2 different weft yarns, 2 different weave types and 3 different weft densities. The weft and warp yarns of the weft stretched fabrics were polyester- elastane covered yarn and polyester yarn, respectively. Air-covered and twisted elastane weft yarns were used at twill and plain fabrics. Needle penetration forces were determined on an L&M Sewability tester for seam performance. Besides this, “needle damage index” was calculated for seam damage. The values of the needle penetration forces were between 64 cN and 370 cN and the needle damage index values were between 18% and 73%. Elastane yarn type and fabric density had significant effects on the needle penetration force. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the seam damage during sewing.

PL

Badano wpływ przędzy elastomerowej i gęstości tkaniny na jakość szwów. Utkano 12 tkanin o różnej rozciągliwości w kierunku wątku, stosując 2 różne nitki poliestrowe i poliestrowo-elastomerowe. Określono siłę penetracji igły i jakość szwu. Dodatkowo obliczono tzw. „indeks” uszkodzenia igły charakteryzujący uszkodzenie szwu. Stwierdzono działanie sił o wartości od 64 cN do 370 cN oraz „indeks” pomiędzy 18% a 73%. Zarówno udział przędzy elastomerowej jak i gęstość tkaniny miały wyraźny wpływ na siłę penetracji. Zamieszczone zdjęcia mikroskopowe ilustrują uszkodzenia szwu podczas szycia.