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Wave-Induced Sediment Motion Beyond the Surf Zone: Case Study of Lubiatowo (Poland)

Cerkowniak G. R., Ostrowski R., Stella M.

Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics

2015

Vol. 62, nr 1-2

27--39

The paper presents results of field and theoretical investigations of a natural sandy shore located near the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station in Lubiatowo (Poland, the south Baltic Sea). The study site displays multi-bar cross-shore profiles that intensively dissipate wave energy, mostly by breaking. The main field data comprise offshore wave parameters and three cross-shore bathymetric profiles. Waveinduced nearbed velocities and bed shear stresses are theoretically modelled for weak, moderate, strong and extreme storm conditions to determine sediment motion regimes at various locations on the seaward boundary of the surf zone. The paper contains a discussion on the depth of closure concept, according to which the offshore range of sea bottom changes can be determined by the extreme seasonal deep-water wave parameters.

Key phenomena in surf and swash zone: process-based modelling and data-driven analysis

Kapiński J., Ostrowski R., Pruszak Z., Różyński G.

Bulletin of the Polish Academy of Sciences. Technical Sciences

2006

Vol. 54, nr 4

391-403

Selected results of investigations concerning a shallow water part of the coastal zone, covering the surf zone and the swash zone are presented. The above research bas been carried out by means of field measurements as well as data-driven and theoretical modelling. The investigations have led to development of a mathematical model of wave transformation and run-up on the shore in the Lagrangian system, as well as identification of infragravity waves (edge waves) in the multibar morphological beach system and their linkage with rhythmic shoreline forms (cusps). Same empirical relationships have been obtained for the description of number of bars in a bar system and dissipation of wave energy over such morphological structure. The experimental findings are based on field studies carrled out at the IBW PAN Coastal Research Station (CRS) in Lubiatowo.