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Assessment of myofascial stiffness of flexor digitorum superficialis muscles in rock climbers

Kocur Piotr, Piwińska Iga, Goliwąs Magdalena, Adamczewska Katarzyna

Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics

2021

Vol. 23, no. 2

23--31

Purpose: Myofascial stiffness is the biomechanical property that can be considered as a modifiable risk factor injury of athletes. Moreover, the level of muscle stiffness can be crucial to assessment muscle adaptation to exercise. However, stiffness of flexor muscles in rock climbers has never been investigated. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the myofascial stiffness of the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) in the rock climbers. Methods: The group of rock climbers (n = 16) has been compared to the non-climbers group (n = 16), matched in terms of anthropometric measures and an average level of physical fitness. Moreover, the impact of the one-time rock climbing training on FDS stiffness was assessed in the rock climbers group. The measurement of myotonometric myofascial stiffness of FDS muscles was performed, when the elbow was flexed and fully extended. In both positions, the measurements were taken with the hand open and closed. Results: It has been shown that rock climber’s FDS muscle stiffness before training was significantly higher (from 15 to 20%) compared to non-climbers group. Moreover, after climbing myofascial stiffness of FDS muscles increased significantly from 25 to 40%. Conclusions: Rock climbers have significantly higher stiffness of FDS muscles after rock climbing training. Moreover, the increased stiffness in the FDS differentiates rock climbers from the active and healthy control group. Results may indicate that decrease of muscle stiffness of FDS can be an important factor for the improvement of the climbing effectiveness and prevention of overload in the forearm flexor muscles and their recovery.

Application of closed kinematic chain exercises with eccentric and strength exercises for the shoulder injuries prevention in student rock climbers: a randomized controlled trial

Kozin Serhii, Cretu Marian, Kozina Zhanneta, Chernozub Andrii, Ryepko Olena, Shepelenko Tetiana, Sobko Iryna, Oleksiuk Mariia

Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics

2021

Vol. 23, no. 2

159--168

Purpose: The aim of this work to determine the influence of a program containing exercises in a closed kinematic chain, eccentric and strength exercises on injuries of students – rock climbers. Methods: Participants in this study were 84 male amateur climbing students, aged 18–19, 40 athletes were in the intervention group and 44 in the control group. In the intervention group, the program for the injuries prevention has been stalled. The program included exercises that are performed in a closed kinematic chain in combination with exercises that are performed in eccentric mode and strength exercises. We determined the Incidence rate ratio and confidence intervals. The Incidence rate ratio was determined by the by Fisher exact test. Results: The significant influence of the developed program on the reduction of injuries among the athletes of the intervention group was revealed. Injury rate per 1000 AEs recorded of all shoulder injuries in the control group was 3.182, in the intervention group was 0.5, P < 0.001. The incidence rate ratio for mild shoulder injuries was 0.861 (0.737; 1.007). The incidence rate ratio for moderate shoulder injuries was 0.862 (0.751; 0.990; P = 0.039). The incidence rate ratio for severe shoulder injuries was 0.864 (0.768; 0.971; P = 0.017). Conclusions: The use of exercises in a closed kinematic chain and exercises in an eccentric mode reduces the Incidence rate ratio of shoulders among students – amateur climbers. The incidence rate ratio decreases in the intervention group for mild, moderate, and severe shoulder injuries.

Comparative biomechanical characteristics of one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified athletes

Kozin Sergii, Safronov Danil, Kozina Zhanneta, Kniaz Hanna, Proskurnia Olexsii, Prontenko Kostiantyn, Lahno Olena, Goncharenko Volodymyr, Kholodniy Alexandr

Acta of Bioengineering and Biomechanics

2020

Vol. 22, no. 1

57--66

The aim of the study was to identify the basic kinematic characteristics of the one-arm hang in climbing for beginners and qualified climbers. Material and methods: Technique of the one-arm hang in climbing among 20 leading climbers of the World and Ukraine and 20 beginner male amateur climbers was analyzed. A qualified athlete participated in the demonstration of various models of the one-arm hang performance. By means of Kinovea software 0.8.15, the kinematic characteristics of two models of the technique were analyzed (model 1 for beginner athletes, model 2 for qualified athletes). Results: The presence of significant differences ( p < 0.001) between beginners and qualified athletes in the magnitude of the angles between the shoulder and clavicle, between the spine and the vertical axis in the phase of fixation of the one-arm hang was revealed. The dynamics of the angle between the shoulder and clavicle from the moment of capture of the climbing hold to the phase of fixation of the hang was shown. A theoretical justification for the correct climbing technique regarding to the laws of mechanics and the laws of force interaction in kinematic chain was provided. Conclusions: Beginner athletes carry out the one-arm hang mainly due to the ligamentous apparatus of the joints of the shoulder girdle with minimal inclusion of muscles, which is dangerous by trauma to the ligaments of the shoulder joint. Skilled athletes perform the one-arm hang with trunk and leg muscles included, which reduces the strain from the ligamentous apparatus and lowers the possibility of injury to the ligaments of the shoulder joint.