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Application of numerical wave model swan for analysis of waves in the surf zone

Reda A., Paplińska B.

Oceanological Studies

2002

Vol. 31, No. 1-2

5-21

The numerical wave model SWAN has been used for wave modelling at the Coastal Research Facility at Lubiatowo. This study tested the performance of SWAN in the surf zone with four longshore bars. This is the first stage of the work heading towards a widening of the wave forecast for the Polish nearshore. The analysis concerned changes in the space and time of chosen wave parameters: significant wave height, mean wave period, mean wave direction. Modelled wave parameters were compared with measurements taken during the field experiment in 1996. The conformity is generally reasonable although the model tends to underestimate the significant wave height, particularly for higher waves. Further studies are planned to determine the reason behind this phenomenon.