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Content available remote Wind wave climate of west Spitsbergen : seasonal variability and extreme events
EN
Waves are the key phenomenon directly influencing coastal morphodynamics. Facing insufficient observations, wind wave climate of the west coast of Spitsbergen can be characterized on the basis of the modelled data. Here we have used the results of spectral wave models: Wave Watch III (WW3) hindcast and WAM in ERA-interim (ERAi) reanalysis. We have observed the presence of seasonal cycle with difference of up to 1 m between significant wave heights in summer and winter. In wave-direction analysis we have noticed the southwestern swell component of remarkably narrow width, thus we expect unidirectional swell impact on the coastline. Extreme events analysis revealed that storms occur mainly in winter, but the most energetic ones (significant wave height of up to 9.5 m) occur in spring and autumn. We have identified positive trends in storms’ frequency (2 storms per decade) and storms’ total duration (4 days per decade) on the south of the study area. More storms can result in the increase of erosion rate on the south-western coasts of Spitsbergen, but this change may be highly dependent on the sea ice characteristics. Wave heights of wind sea and swell are correlated with the relevant atmospheric circulation indices, especially the North Atlantic Oscillation. In the recent decade, the correlation is stronger with WW3 than with ERAi data, at some locations explaining over 50% (over 30%) of the total variance of wind sea (swell) wave heights. In ERAi data, the relationship with circulation indices seems sensitive to the length of the analysis period.
EN
The Atlantic meridional overturning circulation (AMOC), an important component of the climate system, has only been directly measured since the RAPID array’s installation across the Atlantic at 26N in 2004. This has shown that the AMOC strength is highly variable on monthly timescales; however, after an abrupt, short-lived, halving of the strength of the AMOC early in 2010, its mean has remained * 15% below its pre-2010 level. To attempt to understand the reasons for this variability, we use a control systems identification approach to model the AMOC, with the RAPID data of 2004–2017 providing a trial and test data set. After testing to find the environmental variables, and systems model, that allow us to best match the RAPID observations, we reconstruct AMOC variation back to 1980. Our reconstruction suggests that there is inter-decadal variability in the strength of the AMOC, with periods of both weaker flow than recently, and flow strengths similar to the late 2000s, since 1980. Recent signs of weakening may therefore not reflect the beginning of a sustained decline. It is also shown that there may be predictive power for AMOC variability of around 6 months, as ocean density contrasts between the source and sink regions for the North Atlantic Drift, with lags up to 6 months, are found to be important components of the systems model.
EN
A third generation numerical wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) was applied to study the spatio-temporal effect of surface currents and sea level height on significant wave height; and to describe the mechanisms responsible for wave–current interaction in the eastern Baltic Sea. Simulation results were validated by comparison with in situ wave measurements in deep and shallow water, carried out using the directional wave buoy and RDCP respectively, and with TerraSAR-X imagery. A hindcast period from 23 to 31 October 2013 included both a period of calm to moderate weather conditions and a severe North-European windstorm called St. Jude. The prevailing wind directions were southerly to westerly. Four simulations with SWAN were made: a control run with dynamical forcing by wind only; and simulations with additional inputs of surface currents and sea level, both separately and combined. A clear effect of surface currents and sea level on the wave field evolution was found. It manifested itself as an increase or decrease of significant wave height of up to 20%. The strength of the interaction was influenced by the propagation directions of waves and surface currents and the severity of weather conditions. An increase in the wave height was mostly seen in shallower waters and in areas where waves and surface currents were propagating in opposite directions. In deeper parts of the eastern Baltic Sea and in case of waves and surface currents propagating in the same direction a decrease occurred.
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