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1 2024

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The cosmetic potential evaluation of the fungus resistant grapevine extracts using metabolomic approaches

Malinowska Magdalena A., Ferrier Manon, Sharafan Marta, Szopa Agnieszka, Gémin Marin-Pierre, Miastkowska Małgorzata, Bialik-Wąs Katarzyna, Dziki Anna, Sikora Elżbieta, Kiszka Adam, Hano Christophe, Giglioli-Guivarc’h Nathalie, Lanoue Arnaud

Scientiae Radices

2024

Vol. 3, Iss. 3

187--211

Natural product effectiveness is an important criterion to develop new active ingredients for cosmetic industry. Plant metabolites exhibit wide range of natural activities and in recent years, there has been a growing interest in the development of plant-based cosmetic products. The complex composition of plant extracts and their natural variability makes it difficult to select and produce plant-based natural ingredients with the most effective and constant biological capacity. Grapevine (Vitis vinifera L.) is known for its abundance in bioactive polyphenols, but the quality and the quantity in polyphenols vary depending on several parameters including the variety, the geographical origin, the year, and the extraction methods. In the temperate regions of Central Europe, there is currently significant growth in the cultivation of grape varieties that are well-suited to the humid and cool climate. Interestingly, these fungus-resistant varieties exhibit a specific metabolic composition associated to climatic adaptation, paving the way for the development of new active ingredients for skincare. Metabolomics aims to detect, identify and quantify small molecules in living system in response to environmental changes. In this literature review, we present the advantage of metabolomic approaches to evaluate the cosmetic potential of fungus-resistant varieties cultivated in Central and Eastern Europe.