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1
Content available Consumer engagement in the clothing industry
EN
Purpose: The development of ICT has led to an increased interest in the domain of consumer engagement. The article entails an attempt at identifying the symptoms of and the factors influencing consumer engagement, as well as seeks to formulate a model for building Generation Z consumer engagement in the clothing industry. Design/methodology/approach: The study was conducted using in-depth group interviews, in accordance with the principles of grounded theory. The data collected in interviews was processed by transcription. The data coding and analysis was carried out using Atlas.ti computer software. Findings: The article elaborates a consumer engagement model incorporating the impact of the following factors on consumer engagement: satisfaction, loyalty, trust, product quality, customer involvement and interest in the product category. The consumer engagement behaviors expressed by the interviewees were classified. Research limitations/implications: The consumer engagement model was formulated based on qualitative data. A future quantitative study should provide quantitative verification of the relationships identified. Further research can be expanded to include other groups of respondents, varying in financial status, age. Practical implications: The results of the study indicate the urgency of following both pathways of building consumer engagement in the practice of clothing companies. They provide clues of sources that should be utilized in consumer engagement building as well as routes to motivate consumers and modify their behavior. Social implications: The results of the study reveal a link between consumer engagement behavior and customer needs satisfaction, as well as high product quality and brand trust. They touch upon the issues of sustainability and the need for a strategy shift in the clothing industry toward sustainable production. Originality/value: The article elaborates a consumer engagement model serving as a basis for the building of strategies aimed at increasing consumer engagement.
2
Content available Fabric Attractiveness Using Four Sensory Evaluators
EN
All senses elicit emotional responses to goods, services, and the environment. They also play an important role in the process of fashion design and its evaluation. This research is a continuation of several preliminary studies we conducted online to define three attractive and three unattractive colors, textures, smells, sounds, and tastes. In the present study, a sample of textile engineering and fashion design students and experts (N=54) assessed four groups of 6 fabric samples (sensory evaluators) selected based on the results of the preliminary studies. Each group of fabrics was assessed in one of four sensory modalities (except taste). Two semantic differentials were used to assess each sensory modality: attractive/unattractive and boring/interesting in the case of color, insensitive/sensitive in the case of texture, disturbing/calming in the case of sound, and cheap/luxurious in the case of smell. We found that among the fabrics in six different colors, the pink fabric was the most attractive. Of the six textures presented, the knitted rib texture was found to be the most attractive to touch. The scent of lemon essential oil was perceived as the most attractive among the six scents used, and the friction sound of suede leather was perceived as the most attractive among the six friction sounds of fabrics. Cluster analysis showed that the attractiveness of scents and colors of six fabric samples was highly differentiated and (almost) each sample was perceived as unique, while the attractiveness of the texture and sound of different samples was less differentiated and the samples were divided into only two groups. This suggests that discrimination of fabric attractiveness may be better in some sensory evaluators/modalities than in others. The results of this study will be useful for further research on the integration of different sensory modalities in fabric perception and garment preferences.
PL
Dzięki ponownemu wykorzystaniu opakowań EkoBox możemy nawet kilkukrotnie ograniczyć liczbę wyrzucanych kartonów i dostarczać nasze produkty nie tylko szybciej, ale i w zgodzie ze zrównoważonym rozwojem i poszanowaniem dla środowiska.
PL
Trudno wyobrazić sobie świat bez tekstyliów. Od ubrań, które nosimy, po pościel, w której się budzimy – prawie cały czas mamy kontakt z tkaninami. Sektor tekstylny, który obejmuje przemysł modowy, charakteryzuje się niskim stopniem wykorzystania i niskim poziomem recyklingu, co prowadzi do znacznej i stale rosnącej presji na oszczędzanie zasobów.
EN
The purposeful attitude towards novelty is a relatively young phenomenon. The attitude to the New as an independent value was shaped initially in the Renaissance (or in the late Middle Ages); it lies in the same channel with the theory of progress. The phenomenon of fashion was gradually formed under its influence and involved into its orbit almost all aspects of life, including art and architecture, one or another degree. The endless need for renewal is defined as one of the main features of modernity as a paradigm (‘modern’ as new, contemporary). What is fashion as a cultural phenomenon, and why did it acquire such great importance precisely in the Modern Times – the epoch of architectural ‘styles’? When does tradition become fashion? How are novelty and freedom, the two main values of the modern paradigm, related? How does the general attitude towards novelty affect the criteria for the aesthetic assessment of contemporary architecture? The category of fashion only recently has become a subject of philosophical reflection, while not affecting the sphere of architecture. In this article, the phenomenon of the New in architecture is considered from the point of philosophical traditionalism. Another starting point of reasoning is the method of the Viennese school of art history, formulated in the phrase “History of art as the history of the spirit”. The religious and philosophical context reveals a fundamentally different approach to the phenomena of novelty and freedom in tradition and modernity and deepens the understanding of the revolution that was carried out in modern architecture. Thus, it helps to substantiate S.O. Khan-Magomedov's idea of two superstyles and refutes the generally accepted point of view, according to which modern architecture directly inherits and evolutionarily develops the achievements of tradition. Taking this idea as a whole, we consider it more broadly – in the sphere of traditional and modern architecture.
6
Content available remote Future of Social Media Marketing in tier III cities of Maharashtra
EN
With rise of technology and disposable income consumers from smaller cities are also showing tendency to buy fashion and lifestyle products. Especially the young consumers, who are more tech-savvy and trend follower would be looking for the experience of having a fashionable product. As the products are not available in the small city market, they visit the nearest big city market or try to go online to purchase product. The advertisements on social media help them to know the latest offerings in the market, hence they look forward to such promotions. The brand marketer needs to make sure that the advertisement on social media should be a proper combination of factors like pricing, discounts, quality, celebrity endorsements and language along with cultural \& religious consideration. Keywords: Social Media Marketing, SM promotions, Tier III, Fashion and Lifestyle.
EN
The aim of the paper was to indicate the reasons for visiting or avoiding fashion blogs by Internet users, as well as to learn about blogs readers’ practices related to browsing and following fashion blogs. Moreover, the study aimed to identify differences between Polish and foreign fashion blogs based on Internet users’ opinion. In order to gather the empirical data, an online survey was used by the authors. As a result, 826 questionnaires were completed, 785 were analyzed. The findings revealed that the respondents sometimes bought clothes and accessories which were the same as or similar to those they had previously seen on fashion blogs and this is an important conclusion for marketers responsible for fashion products. Credibility is a factor that greatly affected purchasing decisions of the respondents. Fashion managers ought to, therefore, consider fashion blogs in their strategic management of such products. The most noticeable differences between Polish and foreign fashion blogs, according to respondents, were related to the content of blogs – pictures and brands presented by the bloggers.
PL
Celem artykułu było wskazanie przyczyn odwiedzania lub unikania blogów modowych przez internautów, a także poznanie zwyczajów i praktyk czytelników blogów modowych. Ponadto, celem badań było zidentyfikowanie różnic pomiędzy polskimi i zagranicznymi blogami modowymi na podstawie opinii internautów. W celu zebrania danych empirycznych, przeprowadzono badanie wykorzystując ankietę internetową. W rezultacie otrzymano 826 wypełnionych kwestionariuszy, z których przeanalizowano 785. Wyniki pokazały, że respondenci często kupują ubrania i akcesoria, które są takie same lub podobne do tych, które wcześniej widzieli na blogach modowych, co jest istotnym wnioskiem dla pracowników odpowiedzialnych za produkty związane z modą. Wiarygodność jest czynnikiem, od którego w dużym stopniu zależą decyzje zakupowe respondentów. Menedżerowie powinni, zatem w strategii zarządzania tego typu produktami uwzględniać blogi modowe. Najbardziej zauważalnymi różnicami między polskimi i zagranicznymi blogami modowymi, według respondentów, były różnice związane z zawartością blogów – zdjęcia i marki prezentowane przez blogerów.
PL
Artykuł analizuje wyniki badań poglądów architektów na mechanizmy przekazu wiedzy fachowej w ich środowisku zawodowym. Mechanizmy te w świetle przeprowadzonych wywiadów obecnie wykazują, i powinny wykazywać również w przyszłości, podobieństwo do typów systemu transmisji międzygeneracyjnej scharakteryzowanych przez Margaret Mead. Respondenci omawianych w tekście badań akcentują potrzebę modyfikacji programu nauczania na studiach architektonicznych.
EN
The article shows the architects’ view on the mechanisms of the transfer of professional knowledge among them. These mechanisms according to the interviews conducted to some extent are and always should be similar to the types of systems of intergenerational transmission, described by Margaret Mead. The respondents of the research accentuate the need of changes in education of architects.
11
Content available Moda w nauce
PL
W artykule przedstawiono zagadnienie mody w nauce. Dokonano omówienia systemu pojęciowego oraz przedstawiono modę w nauce w ujęciu strukturalnym i działaniowym. Porównano wpływ mody w nauce na popularność strukturalnych elementów nauki ze zmianami tej popularności w naturalnym rozwoju nauki. Omówiono zmienność mody na dziedziny naukowe w ujęciu historycznym. W podsumowaniu zaznaczono, że moda jako skutek potrzeby społecznej jest potrzebna również w nauce.
EN
The article shows the issue of fashion in science. The system of meanings and the fashion in science, in the structural and operational form, were done. The impact of fashion in science on the popularity of the structural elements of science was compared with the changes of the popularity in natural science development. The variability of fashion on the fields of science in the historical aspects was discussed. In the summary noted, fashion as a result of the social needs is needed also in science.
PL
Recykling większości osób kojarzy się tylko z segregacją odpadów i kolorowymi pojemnikami na szkło, papier i plastik. Jednak to także punkt widzenia, postawa wobec środowiska i trend obowiązujący wśród ludzi w każdym wieku.
13
Content available remote The Use of Marketing Communications in the Clothing Industry in Slovenia
EN
This article presents the role of marketing communication research in the clothing industry in Slovenia. The aim of our research was to show how these clothing and textile companies use a marketing communication mix for the promotion of products and brands. Our findings suggest that a properly used marketing communication mix is a factor for success in the Slovenian clothing industry. The research results address three groups of companies. Companies with a more developed brand name place more importance on advertising in the marketing communications mix, while the second and third groups of companies give more importance to personal selling. Differences between the groups are obvious, and these correlate to the development of a brand name.
PL
Zaprezentowano rolę badań komunikacji marketingowej w przemyśle odzieżowym w Słowenii. Celem badań było pokazanie jak firmy odzieżowe i tekstylne wykorzystują komunikację marketingową promocji swoich produktów i swojej marki. Wyniki badań sugerują, że prawidłowo użyta komunikacja marketingowa jest czynnikiem przyczyniającym się do sukcesu słoweńskiego przemysłu odzieżowego. Wyniki badań kierowane są do trzech grup przedsiębiorstw: takich z bardziej ugruntowaną na rynku marką, dla których ważniejsza jest reklama dwóch grup preferujących sprzedaż indywidualną. Różnice pomiędzy grupami i ich korelacja do rozwoju znaku firmowego są oczywiste.
14
EN
Within Europe there are a variety of fashion-clothing retailers, ranging from local clothing and department stores to internationally active fashion retail chains. When initiating an internationalisation strategy, fashion retailers should reflect upon the congruence of their product ranges and brand images within the context of the prevalent cultural and trading conditions of foreign markets. This paper examines two recognized multinational fashion companies: the Swedish company H&M and the Spanish company Inditex. It compares them to the Slovenian retailing company Mercator - a fashion house, which is already entering the markets in South Eastern Europe. This analysis has established that there are some differences in the internationalisation process between fashion retailers and production companies.
PL
W Europie istnieją różnorodne handlowe przedsiębiorstwa odzieżowe, począwszy od lokalnych domów towarowych a skończywszy na międzynarodowych sieciach dystrybucji i sprzedaży odzieży. Przy inicjowaniu strategii międzynarodowej, tego typu firmy powinny zwrócić uwagę na konkurencję, rangę produktów i znaki handlowe w kontekście kulturowych i handlowych warunków panujących na rynkach zagranicznych. Rozpatrzono dwa rozpoznawalne na rynku międzynarodowe przedsiębiorstwa odzieżowe: szwedzką firmę „H&M” oraz hiszpański „Imiditex”. Porównano je do słoweńskiej firmy „Mercator” – dom mody, która weszdł już na rynki pd.-wsh. Europy. Wykonana analiza wykazała, że istnieją różnice w procesie „umiędzynaradawiania” pomiędzy przedsiębiorstwami handlowymi i produkcyjnymi.
EN
The haberdashers’ guild was engaged in producing adornments for clothes in the form of trimmings and accessories, whose use in clothes-making closely followed the changing fashions. The haberdashery products used in clothes-making were produced from a variety of raw materials and with the use of various techniques, which contravened the traditional guild rules. The present article discusses a wide range of haberdashery products, from the 13th until the end of the 18th centuries, the disintegration of the guild into various specialized groups, as well as the techniques used by haberdashers, including those that were based on weaving and those that were not. The article also compares the use of haberdashery products and techniques in various parts of Europe, focusing on the countries of Western Europe, including Italy and Spain, which set the fashions for the rest of the continent, and on countries located in the central and eastern parts of Europe, including the Balkan Peninsula. The range of small wares manufactured by harberdashers varied in line with the fashions prevalent at Western courts as well as with the requirements of the national costume of the countries of East-Central Europe. The article deals mainly with different haberdashery techniques based on textile-making, with less attention devoted to techniques based on weaving, involving the use of tablet looms or narrow looms, as these have been well described in other writings on the subject. However, little focus has been given so far to plaitworking techniques, including netting techniques. Different kinds of plaitworks were used in the braiding of garments, in cords, laces, or buttons, whose production had to be supplemented using non-textile-making techniques. Only a handful of very simple tools made the work of haberdashers easier. It was not until the invention of a ribbon-making machine, patented in the Netherlands in the year 1604, and the development of plaitworking machines in England and Germany in the years 1748-1767, that the manufacture of some of the haberdashery products could gradually be mechanized. The introduction of such machines was opposed by haberdashers, who were afraid of a substantial increase in the manufacture of haberdashery products and hence of becoming unemployed. For that reason, the machines were first introduced only in some of the larger workshops.
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