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A New Approach to Evaluate Fabric Hand Based on Three-Dimensional Drape Model

Hussain Azmat, Zhong Yueqi, Naveed Tayyab, Yu Zhicai, Xi Zhang, Ge Wu

Autex Research Journal

2020

Vol. 20, no. 2

155--167

Fabric quality and performance is assessed subjectively by the customer using an important and complex phenomenon of fabric hand. Objectively, it is evaluated with complicated and expensive instruments, such as Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F) and Fabric Assurance with Simple Testing (FAST). The present research explores a non-touch objective approach, i.e., three-dimensional (3D) drape model to estimate fabric hand. Fabric hand prediction was testified on different commercial fabrics spanning a wide range of areal weight, thickness, yarn count, and fabric density. Fabric objective ranks based on drape indicators using principal component analysis (PCA) were compared with subjective ranks of fabric hand. Additionally, fabric drape is evaluated three dimensionally and a new drape indicator drape height (DH) is proposed. The cosine similarity results have proved fabric drape as an objective alternate to fabric hand.

Frictorq, accessing fabric friction with a novel fabric surface tester

Lima M., Hes L., Vasconcelos R., Martins J.

Autex Research Journal

2005

Vol. 5, no. 4

194--201

A new method to characterise the coefficient of friction of textile fabrics is proposed. The principle is based on the dry clutch, where an annular shaped flat upper body that is kept still, rubs against a lower flat surface, which rotates around a vertical axis at a constant angular velocity. Friction coefficient between the two contacting surfaces is then proportional to the level of the dragging torque between them, measured by means of a precision reaction torque sensor. Contact pressure is constant, given by the own weight of the upper body. The signal from the torque sensor is digitalised through an electronic interface and fed into a PC where friction coefficient is worked out. Finally, experimental work is reported.