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2 2023

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Polyphenols and saponins – properties and application in cosmetics

Mietlińska Katarzyna

Biotechnology and Food Science

2023

Vol. 85, nr 1

16--33

The cosmetics market is an extremely dynamic, developing branch of the industry. There is a constant need for multifunctional ingredients that will meet the growing expectations of consumers. Active ingredients of natural origin are also appreciated more and more often. One of the most commonly used plant extracts are those rich in polyphenols. These ingredients are known for their antioxidant properties, but they can have many more functions in relation to human skin. They act against wrinkles, brighten skin, support protection against harmful UV rays, etc. Other interesting active plant ingredients are saponins – compounds with an amphiphilic structure – that can be natural alternative to surfactants or emulsifiers. They possess antimicrobial activity and strengthen blood vessels. This article briefly characterizes polyphenols and saponins, taking into account their structure and classification, as well as indicates and describes their properties that can be used in the cosmetics industry.

Development of a recipe and production method for enzymatic hand peeling

Smolińska Beata, Wyżykowska Monika, Rożniakowski Kamil Krzysztof

Biotechnology and Food Science

2023

Vol. 85, nr 1

63--70

The study focused to develop an enzyme hand peeling. The first stage of the investigation dependent on selecting the qualities that the cosmetic should have. When creating the product, the assumption was made that it would have an exfoliating, moisturizing, firming and even-toning effect. The peeling was developed in several stages starting with the consideration of the cosmetic formulation, the selection of suitable raw materials and the execution of the formulation according to the adopted method. For the preparation of the peeling, the emollients used were so-called oily emollients, including sweet almond oil, Shea butter, coconut oil, oil/water (O/W) emulsifier, stabilizers, moisturisers, rheology modifier, filler, active substances, preservative and solvent. The peeling was prepared on the principle of O/W emulsion. The formulation was made using the classic "hot" method. More than a dozen trials were performed to obtain a product with the desired properties. Subsequently, the peeling was subjected to sensory and hedonistic analysis. Its density, viscosity and stability were evaluated. The formulation was also tested for pH. The final scrub was characterized by an intense but pleasant fragrance, very easy spreading on the skin, light texture, pleasant sensation after use. Hedonistic research has shown that obtained enzyme peeling was fully acceptable in terms of application, color, consistency and feelings after use. The final cosmetic product was also characterised by poor moisturisation and too strong abrasiveness.