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1 2019

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Witamina C w medycynie i kosmetologii

Musiał Claudia, Sawczuk Wojciech, Gawdzik Barbara, Kuban-Jankowska Alicja, Przychodzeń Paulina, Górska-Ponikowska Magdalena

Wiadomości Chemiczne

2019

[Z] 73, 9-10

503--522

Ascorbic acid is one of the strongest antioxidants. It has a protective function against oxidative stress intracellularly. It fights free radicals and eliminates the effects of ultraviolet radiation. The human body is unable to synthesize vitamin C itself. Vitamin C meets supports the mechanism of removing toxins from the human body and has anticancer activity. Over the years, many studies have been carried out to confirm the beneficial effect of preventive and supportive action of cytostatics in the treatment of cancer. Clinical studies described in the study indicate that vitamin C used in combination with a cytostatic drug - gemcystabine, shows no side effects. Vitamin C applied topically on the skin shows a number of positive effects. Studies have shown that vitamin C accumulates in the deeper layers of the skin for about three days. Ascorbic acid has a protective effect against harmful ultraviolet radiation. Manufacturers of cosmetics often add ascorbic acid to cosmetics with sunscreens. In addition, vitamin C acts depigmenting. In order to increase the brightening effect, vitamin C is often combined with glycolic acid or retinol. Ascorbic acid is also used in anti-aging preparations due to the high ability of collagen synthesis in the skin. In topical preparations, ascorbic acid has hydrophilic properties - it is soluble in water and insoluble in fats. Hydrophilic ascorbic acid in synergy with lipophilic tocopherol reduces cell apoptosis and thymine dimer formation. Its stability improves the presence of stabilizing antioxidants, such as vitamin E and ferulic acid. For the preparation to retain its properties, it should be protected from light and oxygen. The development of biotechnology allows the closure of a micronised vitamin C in nanosomes and liposomes, which increases the ability to penetrate deep into the skin. A number of vitamin C derivatives such as ascorbyl tetrapalmitate and ascorbyl phosphate magnesium help achieve the desired results in topical application.