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EN
The clothing industry is currently focused on 3D virtual fitting. Many companies use size 12 as the core size; however, in recent years the average size has increased. For example, in the United Kingdom, the average size is now 16. Many companies have not updated their core size and often use size 12 as the size they are the most familiar with. The purpose of this paper is to compare real plus size body shapes with artificial avatars in relation to the fabric draping. This paper will investigate, how the body shape changes with an age (body height decreases, skin elasticity is lower, the shoulders are hunched, buttocks sag and fatness pockets are accumulated around the waist area). These factors are not considered in virtual avatars, but have a big impact on virtual fitting.
EN
In the apparel manufacturing, the fabric is the single largest element in the cost of the garment. Therefore, effectual fabric consumption causes a reduction in cost and exertions. The purpose of this research is to study the effects of fabric width on the efficiency of marker (cutting) plans. Fabric consumption is in four types for human body shapes, that is, triangle, oval, square, and circle, in both genders to control the fabric utilization. Two clothing styles, fitted trousers and fitted shirts, are manufactured in an apparel manufacturing industry. The marker plans produced through Garment Gerber Technology software are accomplished in 36 different fabric widths (independent variables). The evaluation of dependent variables, that is, marker efficiency, marker loss, and fabric consumption efficiency relevant to four body shapes in variable fabric widths is analyzed for both women and men. The statistical analysis indicates that there is a linear relationship between marker efficiency and fabric width (sig <0.05). The regression analysis (p-value) between dependent variables and predictor variables (body types and fabric width) is also statistically significant. Also, the result implies that markers are more productive with larger fabric widths in all styles in both genders.
EN
In order to provide clothing fit, it is necessary to associate garment patterns with body shapes. In this study, basic skirt patterns werecreated using the Computer Aided Design (CAD) system according to Contec, Metric, Müller, and Basic Blocks Pattern Making Systems in order to evaluate fit. These patterns are dressed up on virtual mannequins which have been created in the three-dimensional (3D) virtual sewing and try-on system. The mannequins’ sizes (38) and body dimensions are specified according to international size charts. Besides this the body shapes are selected as hourglass, triangle, or rectangle. The fit is evaluated according to pressure and tension maps, which are the tools of the 3D virtual sewing and try-on system. Although the mannequins are in same the size, different results are obtained for each body shape. Also different results are acquired for each pattern making system. Consequently it can be said that the pattern making systems are not suitable for each body shape.
PL
W celu zapewnienia odpowiedniego dopasowania ubrania niezbędne jest skojarzenie wzorów odzieży z kształtem ciała. W przedstawionej pracy podstawowe wzory sukni zostały stworzone z wykorzystaniem komputerowego systemu CAD zgodnie z systemami tworzenia wzorów typu Contec, Metric, Muller i Basic Block. W poszczególne wzory zostały ubrane wirtualne manekiny utworzone w systemie szycia i przymiarki 3D. Wymiary manekinów (38) i wymiary ciała zostały specyfikowane zgodnie z międzynarodowym systemem rozmiarów. Oprócz tego kształt ciała został sprecyzowany jako klepsydra, trójkąt lub prostokąt. Dopasowanie zostało ocenione na podstawie map ciśnienia i naprężeń uzyskanych z systemu komputerowego. Jakkolwiek manekiny wykonano w tych samych rozmiarach to uzyskano różne wyniki dla poszczególnych kształtów ciała i różnych systemów tworzenia wzorów.
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