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Morpholithodynamic conditions of the tip of the Hel Peninsula, the Baltic Sea

Rucińska-Zjadacz M., Rudowski S.

Oceanological and Hydrobiological Studies

2015

Vol. 44, No. 2

181--192

The Hel Peninsula is a 35 km long spit that extends into water depths of almost 60 m. Unlike most sandy barriers, the distal end of the Hel Peninsula is prograding into the deep water. This affects unique conditions for the evolution of this section of the Peninsula. The aim of this study is to determine the morpholithodynamic changes on the tip of the Hel Peninsula. Shore studies were performed in 2006-2008 and 2012. Measurements included: beach profiling, determination of shoreline and dune base line positions, and collection of sediment samples. The different nature of the eastern, central and western part of the Hel tip is evident. The eastern part is accumulative, the central part is variable with the general nature of strong and differently directed redeposition and accumulative periods, while the western part is highly erosive.

Long period oscillations in the longshore current on a sandy, barred coast investigated with Singular Spectrum Analysis

Kaczmarek J., Różyński G., Pruszak Z.

Oceanologia

2005

No. 47 (1)

5-25

The presence of infragravity waves in nearshore regions can be sought in the records of both water levels and wave-driven longshore currents. For this reason, time series of such currents in close proximity to the shoreline were analysed using Singular Spectrum Analysis (SSA). Simultaneously, the results obtained with this method were confronted with the output of Discrete Wavelet Transform (DWT), which had previously been applied to this data. The records of longshore currents were collected on a daily basis during field experiments in the autumns of 2002 and 2003 with sampling rates of 3 Hz and 0.5 Hz. This produced a large data set that allowed for the use of an advanced signal processing technique, capable of extracting patterns characteristic of low-, medium- and high-frequency bands. It provided similar evidence to that produced by DWT for the existence of infragravity waves along a dissipative coast with multiple bars. The study also demonstrated the utility of SSA for studies on coastal hydrodynamics. It also showed up the better user-friendliness of DWT in terms of pattern extraction and interpretation. On the other hand, SSA demonstrated a higher precision of pattern extraction once the DWT output was known, which is a manifestation of the synergy of the two methods when applied jointly.