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Surface waves in deep and shallow waters

Massel S.R.

Oceanologia

2010

No. 52 (1)

5-52

The motion of water due to surface waves is the most dynamic factor observed in the marine environment. In this review various aspects of the wave modelling of non-linear, steep surface waves and their role in the atmosphere-ocean interaction are discussed. Significant improvements in wave forecasting have been made in the last ten years. This is to a large extent related to substantial progress in the description of wind forcing and other processes, as well as to the more efficient use of satellite observations and assimilation methods. One striking observation is the increasing variety and complexity of models in which more physical processes are implemented, greater precision and resolution achieved and extended ranges of applicability demonstrated. However in order to evaluate the applicability of particular models, comparison with high quality experimental data, collected in nature or under laboratory conditions, is necessary.

On the relationship between wave breaking and marine aerosol concentration in deep sea areas

Massel S.

Archives of Hydro-Engineering and Environmental Mechanics

2001

Vol. 48, nr 2

31-45

Aerosol fluxes from the sea surface are one of the important factors determining the dynamics of the air-sea interaction. Not numerous available data showed that the intensity of aerosol fluxes strongly depends on the intensity of wave breaking. In the paper theoretical formulas to determine the probability of breaking crests and percentage of whitecaps coverage are discussed. These formulas are a starting basis for the set-by-step procedure to determine the aerosol fluxes in deep water under the steady sea state conditions.