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Fabric Composition and Wearability Analysis of Zhuanghua

Sun Ying, Liu Zheng, Silberman Jeffrey, Hou Jue, Dai Jian

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

2022

Vol. 30, no. 4

9--20

Zhuanghua is a representative variety of Nanjing Yun brocade, symbolising the highest achievement of ancient Chinese textile technology. It has been widely used as a clothing fabric since its appearance. This paper firstly explored the characteristics of weaving materials, fabric weaves, and fabric weaving of Zhuanghua based on a literature review, manufactory visiting, and a market survey. To preserve the textile application, the permeability, shape preservation property, and appearance preservation property of fabric were tested for wearability. Specifically, six pieces of Zhuanghua satin were selected as the primary samples, along with six pieces of customised plain satin as the matching samples. Influenced by the Zhuangzhi technique, the Zhuanghua satin presented the following features. The thickness and air permeability of the Zhuanghua satin varied between patterned and non-patterned parts. The Zhuanghua satin in the weft direction showed higher tensile strength, stronger stiffness, and weak crease recovery ability. The average weft elongation at break of Zhuanghua satin increased by 25% and the weft flexural rigidity by 3-8 times, while the average weft crease recovery angle decreased by nearly 30°. The performance of anti-fuzzing and anti-pilling was improved, and the grades increased by 1 and 2, respectively. The study is conducive to a more scientific understanding and development of Yun brocade.

Study on the Technological Process and Artistic Characteristics of Ancient Chinese Zhuanghua Silk Fabric

Chai Juan, Cui Rrongrong, Niu Li

Fibres & Textiles in Eastern Europe

2021

Vol. 29, no. 4 (148)

105--111

In order to explore the traditional and superb craftsmanship as well as unique characteristics of artistic expression in ancient China, in this paper Zhuanghua silk fabric was selected as the research object, and the research methods of expert interview, cultural relic investigation, field investigation and others were adopted. The craft, pattern, colour and other artistic characteristics of Zhuanghua silk fabric were analysed and studied. First of all, the historical background and classification of Zhuanghua silk fabric are introduced, focusing on a comparison with other processes such as Chinese Silk Tapestry, Secondly, taking Zhuanghua Satin as an example, the technological process of Zhuanghua Satin is analysed in detail. Based on this, the artistic characteristics of Zhuanghua silk fabric are analysed from a micro perspective. The problem of vagueness with regard to the skills and artistic features of traditional Zhuanghua silk fabric was solved in the study, and an important reference for modern innovative practice is put forward so as to inherit and carry forward the technique of Zhuanghua silk fabric.

W celu zbadania tradycyjnego rzemiosła, a także unikalnych cech ekspresji artystycznej w starożytnych Chinach, autorzy poddali analizie jedwabną tkaninę Zhuanghua. Przeanalizowano rzemiosło, wzór, kolor i inne cechy artystyczne jedwabnej tkaniny Zhuanghua. Przedstawiono tło historyczne i klasyfikację jedwabnej tkaniny Zhuanghua, skupiając się na porównaniu z innymi procesami oraz szczegółowo przeanalizowano proces technologiczny.